As I recall, there are two types of relay cord (of course!). These
observations relate to the older original style, but may be applicable to
the later version. Parts for the original were supplied (MMS-C1 and
MMS-C2), but I don't recall ever seeing parts pages for the later type.
Parts pages for the original may be posted on Mark Dapoz's site.
There should be a tab on the rear of the relay cord that fits into a notch
on the back of the MD unit. I would suspect that either the tab on the
relay is rounded and worn, the bracket is cracked or "spread" (the two
springs on the front edge that hold it in place on the MD put pressure on
the plastic frame, making it bend), or the notch in the rear of the MD
casting has been worn laterally.
Also, on the contact plate of the end of the relay cord that attaches to the
MD, the parts page shows there should be a pin in front of the six contacts.
That pin fits into a hole in front of the six pins on the bottom of the MD.
I would assume that that pin has been sheared off as well.
> When the relay cord is mounted on the drive, there is quite a lot of
> lateral backlash. I.e. the connector can move sideways for about 5mm
> (0.2" for all you imperialists out there). If I slide it to the outmost
position
> in the direction of the lens, the connectors do not make contact
> anymore! Is this normal? Is there a fix? The cord snaps pretty firmly i
> nto place otherwise and makes good electrical contact (after sandpaper
> treatment).
>
CE132900 should be held in place with three screws. If they were not
tightened evenly or if any are missing, the brass plate may have tilted,
causing a short against the switch.
> When switching to either 'single' or 'continue', the camera started
> *exposing* immediately in continueous mode, the moment the
> switch dropped in place, irregardless of the trigger button! When the
> switch was only turned (not dropped) it acted as it should. This seemed
> to be caused by the brass ring (CE132900 RS PLATE) acting as a
> conductor between the drive casing (through the switch body) and the
> actual switch's contact ring (CE015600 RS CONTACT through
> CE015300 RS NUT). I could solve this by simply putting an insulating
> washer between the brass ring ring and the nut inside the switch. Is this
> a common problem? Or does this indicate a short cirquit somewhere
> else in the battery pack or in the drive?
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Regards,
> Bart
>
>
>
> --
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