Thanks for your response. My camera body, I believe, is the OM-2 with
accessory shoe 3. I have seen photos of the other incarnations and I believe
they are clearly designated on the body. Flipping the calculator panel on the
T20 to the TTL mode forces the selector switch to "manual" and placing the
camera on "auto" should render it all set for TTL auto. I hope I just have a
contact problem of sorts, else please advise, if possible.
Mike G
-----Original Message-----
From: USHER99
To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 10:52:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Subject: T20 problem
Hope someone has a suggestion. Recently at a wedding near Big Fork Montana.
Most often use Vivitar 283 for flash though occasionally the T20. It will not
fire in TTL mode---the shutter stayed open for 3-4 sec. I do not remember if I
had tried to synch at 1/60 or 1/30 th. Non TTL auto with the T20 and the 283
work fine. I wonder if it has anything to do with the 3rd contact and whether
I will need to send in the OM-2 and/or the T20 if there is no easy fix.
Thanks.
I also wanted to contribute something to the archives. [Worked this out during
7 hr layover in Denver as the connecting flt was canceled. This may be a
solution in search of a problem] Noticed when searching the archives on the
T20 that the calculator panel is frequently lost. One does not really require
it and it is not necessary as had been suggested to copy down the 2 f stops
available. The flip side of the calculator panel ("full auto") forces the
selector switch to the far left "manual" position. The GN=2X sqrt(ASA) meters
or approx. 6.6 X sqrt(ASA) (ft) Thus max coupling range for TTL auto=
GN/f stop. For non TTL auto the left most f stop available is 2 X sqrt(ASA)/5
and the right-most is 4X sqrt(ASA)/5. Hope someone can use this. I still do
not wish to lose my calculator panel.
Mike G
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