At 11:33 AM 6/10/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>With walt getting his E-1 and me getting mine a little bit before, what
>do we need to change from the default settings to get the best out of it.
>
>First thing I did was change to shoot raw and small jpeg, then moved the
>metering away from esp to centre weighted, next I changed auto focus
>point to centre.
Definitely shoot RAW. The accompanying jpg is very optional
IMO. Certainly useful for a while as you evaluate your WB and saturation
settings against the RAW version, or if you just need something quick and
closer to web size. Note that you have two options for the size of your
SQ. The 1:8 one is quite small.
But twice the number of images, despite their size, is twice the number of
images to move around, and that equals twice the work to me at the file
management level.
>to save me a bit of time what should I do next to reduce post
>processing to a minimum
I use Auto WB most of the time. Use Olympus Viewer for RAW
conversion. Make sure to get the update. The histogram is very useful in
that version and the advanced settings tab in Viewer allows you to select
the camera settings (for saturation, sharpness, WB, etc.) or alter them
during RAW processing.
Shooting RAW actually saves you postprocessing time with the E-1. Sounds
peculiar to say that.
>The OM90F2 feels so much nicer on the E-1 than the 14-45 (maybe get the
>14-54 when funds allow) that I am glad I have an adapter. I find manual
>focussing no problem yet
I know what you mean.
Other settings:
* Saturation: I like CM2 personally
* Contrast: 0 (adjust in post with curves tool)
* Sharpness: 0 or less depending on how you work in post
* Space: AdobeRGB matches my workflow YMMV
Remember these do not affect the RAW image, BUT you can set Viewer to use
the camera settings by default unless you decide to change
them. Discovering what works best for you for the most part teaches you
what settings are going to be best when you don't have the luxury of
shooting RAW.
* ISO boost: might as well switch to on -- allows you to go beyond 800
(but do you really need to do that?)
* S.AF + MF: switch to ON (allows you to take over manual focusing after
using AF -- but be mindful that this only works so long as you are holding
the shutter down halfway -- release the button and the AF takes over again
when you depress it again
A bit more advanced stuff to consider:
* AEL/AFL -- I pondered what to do with this for a long time because the
auto-exposure lock was really important to the way I was working with the
C8080. I think life is just different with the E-1. If ESP exposure is
suspect, I now just switch to M mode and work with manual exposure
settings. Chimp and adjust.
* Chimp Mode -- speaking of this -- once you've hit the display button,
pushing the INFO button overlays the histogram. The default setting on the
monitor doesn't hold enough information to display the highlights very
accurately, so one click provides a quick check of the histogram. It is
also possible to get the display to show blown highlights. I don't find
this to be necessary with the histogram available.
HTH,
Joel W.
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