At 04:19 AM 5/11/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>I just joined the list a couple weeks ago and would like your
>comments, and critique of some of my photos. I would like to get more
>serious about photograghy, and thought this might be a good way for me to
>learn what I've been doing right/wrong. I know from what I've seen here so
>far that I have a lot to learn(as if my good/bad photo ratio hadn't
>already told me that) so, don't hold back I can take it. Unfortunately,
>these are scans of some of my photos over the last year or two, so I don't
>know for sure what lenses, film, exposure, etc were used. Most, if not all
>were taken with an OM-10( I have recently bought an OM-1 MD), film was
>most likely Fuji 400 Superia X-tra, lenses are either, Zuiko 50/1.8 or
>Sigma 70-210/4.5 Macro.
>
>Well, ya go.
>http://photobucket.com/albums/v626/cougar101/
>
>Thanks in advance for any advice,
>
>Darin
Hi Darin,
In general it looks like the scans are made from c-prints. Am I
correct? I would suspect that your film has a lot more detail in it than
is represented in the scans, where the highlights are gone and the shadows
lack some detail. That's bad news/good news -- assuming I'm
correct. Scanning your own film can be both liberating and quite
affirming. But obviously, you have to get a film scanner and surmount a
pretty big learning curve.
I think one of my favorite compositions in the bunch is the big trees.
I just suggest using a slower film (ISO 100), possibly even switching over
to slides for a while. It's expensive but you'll learn more about how to
use the meter on your OM-1 to the best advantage.
Get a tripod if you don't have one, get a good one (which usually means a
little heavier than you think you might want to carry all over!), and use
it. Learn the Olympus technique of supporting the camera in your hands,
even while on the tripod, and squeezing off shots. That's especially
important technique to get the best out of the OM-1.
The tripod will also help you to be able to use a smaller stop in your
close up work. With three-dimensional objects and a deep field of view,
you often want as small a stop as possible. You'll still get a lot of blur
(often a pleasing part of the image) but your main subjects will be more in
focus.
Sorry if I've made any incorrect assumptions here about what you know or
do. Thanks for letting us into your world and good luck!
Joel W.
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