Hi Morgan
Thanks for your explanation and advice. I had started to think, I must
admit, that I should have to use Manual on the E-1 when using a T32 in
Normal Auto. The camera did not really expose for the flash and so
kept the shutter open for varying amounts of time (like 2nd-curtain
synch). I shall give it a few test shots in Manual with a BG2 and T32
setup, using my Sekonic 308 as a flash meter.
I have ordered an FL-36 as I really do need an automatic system for a
lot of the time. I also have a Metz slave flash (34 CS 2) which floods
the area nicely with the wide lens fitted.
I am also really irritated at the paucity of advice in the manual for
the E-1. It is not far off the "Book 1" for the OM4, I think it was,
to get you going ...!
Cheers
Chris
On 12 Dec 2004, at 18:29, mms@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> Hi Chris,
>
> I can't answer your question on the E-1, but I have some remarks on
> using
> the T-32 (on a BG2 w/ Sto-Fen) with a newly bought Minolta A2.
>
> I used this rig on Thanksgiving to take inside flash snaps, and was
> really
> pleased with the results. The T32 was on regular "AUTO" and the A2 was
> full manual. First of all I was impressed with the way the T32 controls
> itself through that tiny hole on the "O". I had to tweak the settings
> a
> bit to get optimal results, but not by much . . . with both the flash
> and
> camera set at f8 and ISO 100, I don't think I went more than 1/2 stop
> either way. You gotta love digital workflow with strobes--just pop
> off a
> few test shots, check the EVF (fabulous on the A2) adjust the settings
> to
> taste and forget it.
>
> I exposed for the highlights, and still got lots of shadow detail. An
> OM
> on full TTL/OTF can only make a guess at this kind of thing. It's the
> digital equivalent of the old "flashmatic" feature in 70's RF's, where
> you
> can focus on--and expose for--any part of the scene.
>
> I tried out the A2 with a simple studio set-up, and I'm still working
> things out. There are more trade-offs here. You can forget about
> really
> shallow DOF with a 7-50mm zoom and a tiny sensor. The A2 is best at
> ISO
> 64 or 100, and f4 or 5.6 I can only dial my power pack down to 100WS.
> So
> I need to physically cut the light output or use a ND filter on the
> A2.
> I did notice by setting the shutter to 1/2000, I can exclude some of
> the
> output on the flash tubes, maybe 1/2 stop. I'm not sure why this
> happens.
>
> I'm now a big fan of full manual flash control in digital. I can't see
> spending the $ on a dedicated flash for any high-end digital camera,
> yet--at least for my purposes. Even with macro, the ability to proof
> every exposure in real time beats the most sophisticated algorithms
> on a
> dedicated strobe. That PC socket is a "must have" item.
>
> Morgan Sparks
>
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<|_:-)_|>
C M I Barker
Cambridgeshire, Great Britain.
+44 (0)7092 251126
http://www.threeshoes.co.uk
http://homepage.mac.com/zuiko
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