In my lengthy quest for my next DC, I've pretty much decided what my
purposes are:
- A nice camera for general, casual photography, snapshots of family,
friends, places I visit, etc. Important things are reasonable price,
size and weight, good auto metering, good AF, etc.
- A digital back for my many OM mount lenses with sufficient imaging
quality to compete with films like Portra 160 in OM bodies.
It immediatly became apparent that I would have to compromise in one
direction or the other. A 5-8mp prosumer camera would nicely meet the
first aim, but not allow use of my OM lenses. A DSLR would do
everything, but would be bigger than I would really like. I left the
issue of reflex finder vs. EVF to be dealt with further along in the
process, as hands on testing would be necessary.
One of my main considerations has been the issue of camera and subject
movement. I went through excitement over the in camera IS of the A1 and
A2, but as I thought back on recent photography I've done, it became
clear that I have far, far more problem with subject movement than
camera movement. I like to photograph living things outside,
particularly flowers and other plant parts, often at magnification up
to 1:1. Even on a rather still day, there are usually small air
movements. Of course, I can brace the subjects in various ways, which
often helps, but does involve much time fussing around and sometimes teh
light has changed by the time I'm done. Or a stronger breeze has come up.
So I spent some time thinking the issue through and doing some research.
Since aperture is being used for DOF selection and I already have rather
fast macro lenses, that doesn't offer any help. I also tried out noise
reduction software on sample images from A2 and E-1 reviews. While the
software does amazing things, it really isn't good for much more than 1
stop, certainly no more than 2 before it just has too great an impact on
detail. Save a valuable shot, sure, but not an everyday, most images,
solution for me.
I'd looked at some reviews of IS options Then the Aug Pop Photo reviewed
both in-lens and in-camera solutions using what seems to me to be pretty
good methodology for practical results. Interestingly, the butterfly
used in their tests is a fake, to eliminate subject movement. What they
found was that about the max gain IS gives in ordinary fl ranges is 2
stops, ranging up to 3 stops for some long tele. The max advantage for
the A2 is 2 stops.
Then looking at noise data for the A2, the E-1 and the D300, it seems
pretty clear that the D300 has about the same or better noise at 800 as
the A2 at 64 and 100 and about the same noise at 1600 as the A2 at 200,
In both cases, about a 3 stop difference. So while the D300 would need a
faster shutter speed than the A2 to stop blur from camera movement, it
could do so in all cases by using a higher iso setting and do as well or
better in noise performance. The big bonus, of course, is that the
higher shutter speed would also reduce the effect of subject movement,
unlike the IS.
The problem with this noise conclusion is that the E-1, while much
better than the A2 (or any of the prosumer models), is distinctly
noisier than the D300 at all speeds, gets sort of ugly at 400 and awful
over that.
Thinking the thing through, I concluded that the real solution to my
problem is in the sensor, film, CCD, CMOS, etc.
I suppose you can see where this is leading. A few more considerations:
I really want a built-in flash. I don't expect a lot from it, just the
flexibillity of taking snapshots of grandkids, family and friends and
some simple fill flash. The E-1 requires additional hundreds of dollars
for any flash capability at all.
I have tried an E-1, and it had focus speed issues in dim light. Sure it
gets there in most cases, but not very fast. Some on the list have had
similar experience, others either don't runinto it or aren't bothered by it.
I like the idea of the 4/3 system and I would like to have an E-x and
some of those neat lenses. But, I consider any DSLR or prosumer bought
right now as an interim step as digital continues to develop, so I don't
want to spend a lot on one. The other Can*n bodies have advantages over
the 300D, but the price isn't right for my purpose. The 300D is readily
available now for about $750 delivered. Oh, I already have an OM to EOS
mount adapter that I got for a pretty good price to try out DSLR digital
using OM lenses with a borrowed 60D a few months ago.
So the confession is that I am the so far happy owner of a 300D. I
passed on the package lens. Too many reviews indicating it is just
so-so. And If Oly doesn't deliver on the E series, what do I want with a
lens that doesn't fit any other Can*n bodies? For casual use, I picked
up a used 24-85/3.5-4.5 USM lens. It's roughly equivalent to 38-136, a
good range for me (and I have 18 and 21mm Zuikos). So far, it has proved
to be a pretty good lens, trading sharpness depending on fl, aperture,
distance etc. with a couple of ordinary Zuikos, but certainly not up to
the best ones. I've taken some more comparisons, but it takes time to
evaluate them.
So my total cost so far is under $1,000 for DSLR and general purpose
lens, and I already know it can do most of what I want from it based on
use for a few days. Certainly the high iso, low noise options are
proving to work. Of course, the option of adding IS to the high speeds
is there too.
A couple of further observation for those considering a DSLR.
- I see mention on the list of the black 300D. Think carefully before
going that way. I love the look of black cameras. I didn't think I could
afford a black OM-1 in '73, and bought chrome, but my next camera was a
black OM-2n in '76. However, digital is different. One of the real
issues with noise from digital sensors is temperture. With the silver
300D just sitting out in the yard on a tripod while I take some pics,
there is a considerable difference in surface temperture between the
silver parts of the body and the black parts of body and lens. I think
the silver body is more practical, if not as attractive. I've taken to
throwing a hat over it if it is going to sit in the sun for a few minutes.
- One of the drawbacks of the 300D and some of the prosumer cameras is
that they only have USB 1.1. Downloading raw images is painfully slow.
Looking around, I found that quite a few CF card readers being sold are
still 1.1, even when described as 'high speed'. Check before buying!
What I found that may be of interest to others here is the "All in 1"
card adapter, which reads and writes to ALL 9 current card formats. B&H
sells it under the GGI brand for $24.95. I like the idea of flexibility
in using different cameras and cards in the future. So far, it is WAY
faster than 1.1 direct from the camera and speeds up downloads from
other DCs in the family.
- The Raw converter in PS CS is great. Much faster and more flexible
than the one that comes with the camera. PS is too expensive,,,, except
it just keeps getting better.
- The penta-mirror viewer on the 300D is no problem for me so far.
However, I have 20/10 vision in my right eye, the one I view and focus
with, so I can see that small detail pretty well. In dim light and with
very wide lenses, I think that, like C.H. and others have said, manual
focus in going to be tricky. Although I was able to do some dim light
focusing with the D60 I borrowed, given time and a tripod.
Moose
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