If you're working on a tripod with a static subject, you could take a
series of exposures, say, 3 stops apart, and marry them in the photo
editor, for VERY wide and smooth dynamic range, then pick the effective
exposure you like.
Actually, for any static view, merging multiple pictures could give you
more resolution.
tOM
On Saturday, May 29, 2004 at 19:37,
C.H.Ling <olympus@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Joe, I believe you are still using film and have not play with some good DC
> yet. A good DC can keep very good control of shadows, even the E-10
> can allow for two stops under and pull up in software later (with the
> increasing of noies) with minimum lost of shadow details.
>
> Here is an example of a E-1 shot with 11-22mm I took today, the foreground
> buildings was under at least 1.5 stops, try to download and play with it
> under you photo editing software you will know how good the shadow is. BTW,
> it was shot under JPEG mode, if you shot RAW it will be even better!
>
> http://www.accura.com.hk/exp_test.jpg (~300KB)
>
> C.H.Ling
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Gwinn" <joegwinn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> > >For DC, the highlight is easily clipped but shadow does not, [so] I
> > >always shoot under and adjust it later. A curve can compress the
> highlight
> > >(not cut it off), while maintaining the picture a brilliant look. The sky
> > >will keep without wash-out.
> >
> > If I understand, you are underexposing the frame (less light), to
> > ensure enough of the highlight is captured that you can later
> > compress it using the curve, and just living with the resulting loss
> > of shadow detail. In bright light, the loss won't be that great, and
> > getting the highlights (and sky) right makes the most difference.
> >
> > The wider the linear range, the easier it is to do this, as the
> > exposure becomes less critical. And, more shadow detail can be kept.
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