Andrew,
I'm glad to see Moose answered the question about the 410 head. I started to,
but I've got the 405, and I assumed, but wasn't completely sure, that the 410
was the same as far as the gear release that allows for quick, gross
adjustments.
As for the 20/2, that's the only Zuiko macro lens I don't have, and that's
because I thought I'd never want or need to shoot anything that small or
magnified that much. In fact, I don't even use the 38/2.8 all that much, just
enough to make it a keeper. The 80/4 on the 65-116 auto tube gets me about as
close as I want to go most of the time, and even it on the bellows is usually
more than I need, never mind with the f=170mm close-up lens.
Walt
> Here's an overdue report on a couple of recent items.
>
> I've been looking for a 38/2.8 for some time, as I wanted to shoot macro in
> the 3X to 6X range. I got fed up waiting, and when KEH advertised a 20/2 I
> decided to try it.
>
> It was in advertised condition of course, and I set to work. Fortunately
> Henry's had auctioned a Manfrotto 410 geared tripod head, a couple of list
> members gave good reviews - so it and the 20/2 arrived chez moi more or less
> at the same time.
>
> The 20/2 is great, it's amazing to be able to photograph at 12X, but I was
> right to be looking for the 38/2.8 instead. The 20/2 is awkward to use
> around 4X. Sitting right on the camera with no extension it produces 3.5X.
> With the 65-116 at minimum extension it produces 6.75X, bellows at minimum
> produces about 5.75X. Thus, between 3.5X and 5.75X you have to use the
> fixed-length tubes. As it has only 4mm of helicoid extension you can't
> change magnification easily, and there are in fact minor gaps if you're
> using the 7-14-25 set. Combined with a T28/TPC1 things can get a bit crowded
> on top of the camera when you're working with short extension, but it's OK.
>
> Working distance is *very* short: I was trying to shoot some tiny
> wildflowers in my lawn yesterday, and had difficulty because the T28s were
> bumping into the ground!
>
> I found at f16 and 10X or so the images weren't quite as sharp as I'd like.
> This may be a diffraction issue; I'll try larger apertures.
>
> At high magnifications aiming the camera can get finicky, so I'm glad to
> have the 410. Walt's comments about lack of backlash were instrumental in
> this decision. This is a big feature, because above 2X I find backlash can
> make it hard to get the composition I want (and that's with a Monoball).
> Turning all the knobs puts me in mind of old WWII newsreels of people aiming
> howitzers, but it's very precise and once aimed it stays aimed. The knobs
> have to be turned a lot to get significant movements, but that's necessary
> if they're to provide fine adjustment. Combined with a focusing stage you
> can put the camera where you want it, but your fingers will do a lot of
> work.
>
> In summary I don't regret buying the 20/2, but it's not a substitute for the
> 38. The 410 will exercise your fingers but the camera will get where you
> mean to put it. After working at these magnifications, putting on the 50/3.5
> and a tube and shooting handheld seems positively footloose and fancy-free.
> :-)
>
> Andrew
>
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