AG Schnozz wrote:
>>Aha! sure, my developer is dark brown. So that's the problem!
>>i guess
>>i'm off to the store to share a little chat with the
>>salesperson.
>
>
> We've all been there, done that. Don't feel bad. I would take
> in a small sample and your receipt. (A urine sample can also be
> used in a pinch--put in a drop of red and yellow food coloring
> if it isn't dark enough) <smile>
i was 20 minutes too late to get to the shop. i'll have to go there
tomorrow again..
i found this on google groups (should have checked earlier):
http://tinyurl.com/3hc3m
my neutol is really dark red-brown. i really hope that i will get a new
bottle to try it out tomorrow. in the meantime, i will simply use...
>
> Another technique for testing your developer is to take a drop
> of it and place it on a small scrap of printing paper. Turn on
> the light and watch to see if the emulsion turns black where
> it's wet. No black, it's shot.
...to test the old chemicals that are in the darkroom. maybe i'm lucky..
>
> BTW, most papers have some form of developer in the emulsion
> now. If you take a scrap of unprocessed paper and set it out in
> the light you'll see it gradually darken. This imbedded
> developer helps in two areas: It provides for rapid development
> (50% of the time of non-developer papers) and less chance of
> splotchy development.
i have notice this on several long exposure test strips..
>
> Regarding stop-bath. I much prefer using a proper stop-bath
> over plain water. It makes the fixer last longer and prevents
> streaking and splotching (a technical term) if you turn the
> lights on during fixing. It takes a good 30 seconds for the
> developer to become inactive in either stop-bath or fixer.
> Surface development stops immediately, but the emulsion is more
> than just surface.
i am currently using vinegar essence in water, i will upgrade once i get
the hang of printing.
--nils
>
> Lastly, when using resin-coated papers, keep your total
> "wet-time" under 15-20 minutes. Any longer and the corners start
> to seperate. Usually a couple minutes of soaking in clean water
> and a 30 second under-faucet rinse is more than enough wash
> time. I use a clearing agent to make sure any remaining fixer
> is neutralized, but that's being anal.
>
> If you want to try the really good stuff, check out
> www.fineartphotosupply.com for developer and fixer. They sell a
> non-acid fixer which is simply amazing. Forget hours of wash
> time for fiber prints--just a couple minutes does it. One of
> these days I'll have exhausted all of my regular fixer and I'll
> convert over to it for everything. As the big companies abandon
> the traditional wet darkroom products, companies such as
> fineartphotosupply become more and more important. Anthony is a
> good guy. Opinionated, but good. He knows his stuff.
>
> AG-Schnozz
The olympus mailinglist olympus@xxxxxxxxxx
To unsubscribe: mailto:olympus-request@xxxxxxxxxx?subject=unsubscribe
To contact the list admins: mailto:olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx?subject="Olympus
List Problem"
|