james olson wrote:
>
> I am looking to set up a basic studio lighting set up. I have a BG-2 and
> T-32, so it could me mounted on a tripod or light stand to use as a main
> flash. I would like to set it up with a soft box or bounced into an
> umbrella.
>
> Since I don't have a long cord currently to use it, has anyone on the list
> used a T-32 for a studio flash with a 5m cord, or something similar? (Did
> Olympus make an adapter so that I can use the flash with a standard PC cord?
If you want to maintain the rapid charge capability of the BG-2 (and
utilize it's tripod mount) you will require a TTL cord to fire it since
there's no way to reach the hotshoe contact on the bottom of the flash
once it's mounted on the BG-2.
If you take the BG-2 out of the equation you can use a "PC to hotshoe
adapter" to both mount the flash on a tripod or light stand and fire it
with a PC cable. Inexpensive PC to hotshoe adapters can be purchased at
camera stores for $10-15. It's a small plastic and metal block with a
1/4-20 tripod thread on the bottom, a PC connector or cable on the side
and a hotshoe on top. Be careful not to confuse this adapter with its
reverse... a "hotshoe to PC adapter". Not what you want.
Umbrellas are far cheaper than softboxes. Umbrella holders can be had
for about $25. These are designed to attach to a stud atop a light
stand and may require a bit of ingenuity to attach to a tripod depending
upon what kind of hardware comes with the umbrella holder. Remember that
you can bouce off the inside of the umbrella or fire through it. Each
method will render its own effect.
Another, perhaps less expensive solution, is a large piece of thin white
cloth stretched across a frame of 1/2" PVC pipe which could also
incorporate its own floor stand. See
<http://www.lightingmagic.com/difpanel.htm> for ideas.
>
> Is the fact that the power can't be adjusted a big problem? Any ideas would
> be appreciated.
>
T-32's in manual mode do have a power adjustment. They can be set for
either full or 1/4 power... guide numbers 32 and 16 in meters and 104
and 52 in feet. Look carefully at the manual positions on your
calculator panel.
This is not a wide range of adjustment but it's not really necessary.
Just as you can zoom with your feet with a prime lens you can zoom the
flash by moving it closer or farther away. Since the distances are
short you don't have to move it very far to change the exposure by a stop.
My strongest suggestion is to buy a flash meter when working with manual
flash. I bought a Sekonic L-358 a few months ago and now wish I'd
bought a flash meter 30 years ago. Without a flash meter you may be
best to stick with TTL. Once you introduce a diffuser between the flash
and subject you will not be able to use the flash guide number to
compute manual exposure. You might also want to add another diffused
flash near the camera as a fill light.
I have been experimenting with something similar using four T-32's. I
have a small crossbar atop each of two lightstands with a T-32 mounted
on each end of the crossbar and firing into an umbrella. The first
flash is kicked off by a 5 meter TTL cable. The other three are fired
by optical slaves which also serve at the hotshoe attachments to the
crossbar. These low cost slaves can be had at camera stores for about
$15 each.
Chuck Norcutt
Woburn, Massachusetts, USA
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