At 3:40 AM +0100 1/23/04, Listar wrote:
>Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:57:45 -0800
>Subject: [OM] Re: [OT] glue recommendation?
>From: Jim Brokaw <jbrokaw@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>on 1/21/04 6:37 PM, Mickey Trageser at Gad-Zuiks@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> >
> > We've spoken of many glues and adhesives. I need to find a good candidate to
> > re-assemble a broken plaster hand print relief. I know I may as well be
> > trying to reconstruct a tree from fireplace ash, but it's a sentimental
> > thing.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
>Something like 'Duco Cement'?
This will work too, but is far harder to use than carpenter's glue, and weaker.
Brown rubber cement will also work, but is likely to leave brown glue lines and
stains.
>If I understand you right, you're talking about little bits of hardened
>plaster-of-paris, with a handprint pressed into the bits originally.
>
>You don't want anything with water in it as solvent, since that will not go
>well with plaster (I think).
Hardened plaster of paris will not dissolve in water, unless soaked for a long
time. This is the same stuff that walls are plastered with, and using
waster-based wallpaper paste or latex paint on such walls causes no difficulty.
>You want something with some initial 'grab',
>but that doesn't set instantly since you might need to align the pieces
>after initially touching them together. But you need something that sets
>fairly quickly at least enough that you don't have to hold pieces together
>while they dry... When the piece is fully reassembled it isn't subject to
>any great stress or strain upon it, though.
Only contact cement (brown rubber or the like) has enough initial tack to
prevent sliding before the glue fully hardens, but the price is that one must
put it together perfectly on the first try, as it will not be possible to move
thereafter. This is very hard to arrange when trying to reassemble a broken
item, as the broken surfaces are irregular and rough, and it takes some
fiddling to get the two broken surfaces correctly fitted together.
Careful fixturing and/or clamping, although sometimes time consuming, always
works, and allows one to make the necessary final adjustments.
By the way, Titebond has instructions on how to use their product for various
applications. With very dry plaster, such as walls, one first wets the
surfaces with a 10:1 dilution of Titebond in water. I read this from a flyer
some years ago, but don't find it on their website. <http://www.titebond.com/>
Titebond is made by Franklin. An equivalent yellow carpenter's glue is made by
Elmer's. I'm sure every country has an equivalent.
Joe Gwinn
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