Hi,
> > I have an OM3 and an OM4T. There's a chance that I can do concert
> photography for some friends in the future. I was >considering HP5 pushed
> to 1600/3200 for the OM3,
> Good idea. I would also consider Fuji 1600 or delta 3200, as the grain with
> these faster films should at least equal and perhaps better a pushed 4000
> film.
But I want the grain in the B&W pictures :-)
> Don't use flash. It will look unnatural. People have certain expectations
> from concert photos, and the ambient light is it. I have seen some concert
> photos the used flash effectively, but they have involved lower power
> flashes with slow shutter speeds. For this, the Oly flash should be fine.
> Also, the daylight balanced flash will not mix well with the lower color
> temperatures of the ambient lighting.
I was planning on using filters on the flash, and to use it as fill-in flash
e.g. when a guitar player is bent over etc. You certainly make a good point
about the ambient light situation. Probably, I can also adapt much quicker to
the real situation when I'm not using a flash (because I'm not used to flash
yet).
> Concerts are often better lit than you might imagine. Quartz lights are more
> and more a part of the regular business, and even in clubs, sound people
> often have simple lighting as well. If you are a person that simply cannot
> tolerate any grain, and there are more and more of these people than ever,
> then you do have a problem. Again, I would consider some grain as a part of
> the package.
I personally love grain on concert pictures. It's about effect, not about fine
arts, isn't it ?
> I would use one of the previously mentioned black and white
> films, and a Fuji color negative film, either the 800 (quite acceptable
> grain to most anyone), and the newest version of the 1600 film with the
> fourth emulsion layer. I frequently use the four layer Fuji's when I
> anticipate mixed light, as they handle that situation quite well. The newest
> version is really not that grainy, more like the 400 films of just a few
> years ago. This is a situation where it is important to not underexpose. For
> example, the 1600 shot at 1000 or 1200 will probably look less grainy than
> the 800 shot as rated.
Do you have sample shots of both films, or do you know a place where I can see
them ? Of course, concert photos would be best :-) But anything will do. As
long as I get to see the grain. I still have nightmares of 1998 Kodakcolor 400
or something like that with neon-red grain that didn't blend with anything.
How is the Portra 800 ? I usually love Portra 400VC, so I would know the
look&feel a bit already.
> It would be best to get some incident readings on the stage, but this might
> be impossible, so bias your reflected readings accordingly.
Also because I don't have an incident meter. I'll probably go for some
spot-meter guesstimations when the group comes on stage (face, guitar, grey
T-shirt, my hand, ...) and try to adapt as I go.
I think the main points I'm getting here are: 1) no flash, 2) negative film for
larger exposure lattitude.
Suppose the band wants to buy my work. With slides it's easy: give the slide,
no strings attached. How does this work with negative film ?
Regards,
Peter.
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