If I remember right, on the OM-1 when the meter needle is centered in the
gap, the exposure is set 'as metered for 18 0ray'. If the meter needle
touches the inner edge of the gap, it is 1/2 stop off, either high or low.
If the meter needle touches the outside edge of the gap, it is 1 stop off,
either high or low. So you -could- set the exposure to the desired offset
directly, without changing the selected shutter speed.
--
Jim Brokaw
OM-'s of all sorts, and no OM-oney...
on 8/19/03 5:34 PM, Lama-Jim L'Hommedieu at lamadoo@xxxxxxxx wrote:
> It's completely intuitive to me since I learned about exposure when I was
> shooting color slides on an OM-1.
>
> An unexposed (but mounted) frame is black. As you add exposure, the frame
> gets lighter. That's intuitive.
>
> If you take the OM-1 to the beach and meter the sand/sky combination, you need
> to *ADD* exposure to render the white sands as
> lighter than neutral grey.
>
> There's no exposure compensation dial on the OM-1, so you center the needle
> with the aperture. When you center the needle with the
> aperture ring, you can center the needle exactly since OM lens can be set
> between detents (clicks). YOU CAN'T RELIABLY SET SHUTTER
> SPEEDS BETWEEN CLICKS.
>
> Then changing the shutter dial to a slower speed (overexposure) by one click
> gives you precisely one stop of "overexposure" which
> paradoxically is the "correct exposure" for the scene.
>
> The needle will be above the zero space indicating that the scene will be
> rendered on transparency film as something LIGHTER than
> medium gray.
>
> Lama
> Now playing in my head: "You've got to get yer mind right, Luke. What we have
> here is a failure to communicate."
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|