I pretty much agree. The Kodak stock is High Speed Infrared (B&W) code HIE.
Here is an example: http://www.peopleplacesflight.com/guadalupe.htm
I set the dial at 250 and meter through a 25A filter. Bracket if I think of
it. Reset the focus to the red line if I think of it - but you ought to be
shooting at f/11 or smaller and focus isn't much of an issue. Use Kodak's
recommended development time in HC-110 dilution B. Worry about dimpled OM
pressure plates if you're a compulsive sort. Otherwise don't. Here is a
very complete set of information:
http://www.cocam.co.uk/CoCamWS/Infrared/INFRARED.HTM
For subjects, foliage is good. People are interesting. Include some sky.
Have fun.
Gary
Gary Edwards
www.peopleplacesflight.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On
Behalf Of Lama-Jim L'Hommedieu
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 6:28 PM
To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [OM] ? Infra-red photography with OMs ?
Hi Bill,
Here's my receipe for shooting B&W infrared. It's a pain. Don't do it
unless you have an image already in mind that will be enhanced by the
roadblocks that this technology puts in your way. In school we used only
high speed B&W infrared. I don't remember exactly what it's called. It was
hideously expensive, (like $10 for 36 exporures, no shorter rolls
available), especially aftter you add in the other mandatory expenses.
1. Plan the shoot. Think like Mary Ellen Mark. Children in circus gear,
etc. The idea is to pick subject matter that's unearthly so the infra-red
is just another weird aspect to an already weird image. Stick a 17mm wide
angle in someone's laughing face, while a welder works. Watch Twin Peaks
for inspiration.
2. A deep red filter is mandatory. It won't work without a #25 filter,
period. See #6 before you go to the store.
3. Load in complete darkness.
4. Don't even think about metering. Use the cheat sheet.
5. Yeah, you have to shift the focus to the "infrared" mark on the lens.
That's the simplest thing about using the damned stuff.
6. Bracket in huge steps. I think I did +1.5, +3, -1.5 and -3.
7. As I recall, I also had to buy a bottle of HC-110 for that one roll!
Normal D-76 was not recommended.
That's it.
I set up a "picnic scene" in the foreground and the cooling tower of a
nuclear power plant in the background. Twice actually. I mis-loaded the
camera (in complete darkness, remember?) I had to do the shoot all over
again.
The field grass came out white, as if the shoot was after a snow storm. The
sky was nearly black as if I had used a #25 filter (gee). The cooling tower
was nearly white on the sun side and nearly black on the shadow side. In
other words, the contrast was ultra-high and unpredictable. It's wacky
stuff so unless you have a weird scene already in mind, I'd skip it.
Lama
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