Recently I was talking about printing out a grey scale for use as a guide to
neutralizing casts in my scans.
Here's how it's coming along.
In Photoshop, I made a new image (180 dpi, greyscale, about 7&1/2 inches wide
and 10 inches tall). I built a rectangle and filled
with with 100% black. Then I copied it 8 times and made each successively
lighter, using the "Info" pallette to collect the value:
100, 91, 80, 71, 60, 55, 45, 35, 15. I arranged them so they'd print neatly
and left "a hole" for 0 0nk.
I printed it with black ink only. Using the spot meter of the OM-4 to compare
the patches to 3 Kodak grey cards, I can now report
that the "71% black patch" on my oversized, homebrew, greyscale is exactly 18
0rey in reflectance.
I'm gonna shoot the grey scale, a highly polished silver-plated spoon, and the
inside of a matte-black Kodak film can.
You experienced scanners have no doubt anticipated that the shape of the spoon
will reflect a specular highlight (white point). The
inside of the can will show me the black point and naturally, the grey scale
will guide me in the middle. I'm hoping that all of
these "patches" will be big enough to click on in the Minolta scanner's PreScan
window.
Obviously, your milage will vary but for my setup, I'm much closer to being
able to see what's going on.
I'm gonna make test scans in all film scanner modes to see if this scanner is
even capable of giving me a neutral scale. If not,
well......
Lama
BTW, I also printed that greyscale image in full color on my Epson 785 EPX and
it's really disappointing. The blacks in particular
are so loaded up with ink that it looks like the surface is reflecting yellow
(on top?) rather than black. Naturally, the inkjet's
blacks aren't anything *LIKE* the black-black-black-black I got from Oriental
Seagull primo paper in the old days.
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