True meter failure (as is seen so often on 2s's) is characterized by the
meter not reacting to light, but the indicator is always near the lower
end unless extreme inputs are made -- coupling ring pegged, or ISO set
very high, etc. And everything else works just fine, even auto and
manual exposures -- it's just the display that's farky. Sounds like
you've got a number of issues, some of which may be circuit-related, but
there's a good chance most are mechanical. In other words, there may be
hope.
The slipping pin on the rewind lever has several solutions. For a long
time we just cut a longer pin from a paper clip -- I've still got paper
clips all over the place with one leg cut short! But the last few years
we found that you could just put a slight bend in the pin, so that it
didn't slip sideways anymore. Either way is fine, I suppose.
Julian Davies wrote:
>
> Does the following sound familiar? Meter goes to full reading and stays
> there. Responds to setting minimum ASA and aperture, but not to light.
> Shutter curtains run together, except on mech 60. At one time, releasing the
> shutter would fire mirror and aperture, not shutter. Setting to battery
> check fired shutter, but curtains then ran together. This I cured by setting
> the self - timer! Seems like half the "brain" thought it was doing a ST shot
> and the other half didn't (no bleeps, flashing etc. and a lot more than 12s
> waiting). Oh, and this happened every second exposure as well!
>
> Thing is that all these symptoms are intermittent. I just got the camera out
> to play with, and: Meter is responsive in all modes, Shutter working fine in
> all modes . I can't check the accuracy, but the curtains are running with a
> gap and the slow speeds time about right. I guarantee that if I put a film
> in it to do some more extensive checks, the whole thing will revert to the
> condition first described, or at least partly, because it doesn't always all
> go wrong at the same time.
>
> The real question is: do I have an economically repairable camera or a
> rather attractive doorstop? my first instinct is to think "broken track on
> the circuit" or "Poor contact on a switch", i.e. "repairable", but unless
> these things happen in relatively well known places, investigation costs
> will surely get to be more expensive than the value of the body. Evidently
> if the circuit itself is toast, I have a doorstop.
>
> Subsidiary question! Every 2S I've seen (mine included) suffers from the
> little pin which holds the rewind crank moving to one side, causing a mis
> alignment of the crank. I've fixed mine (several times), but is there a way
> to stop this happening. Seems much more common on 2S than on other models.
>
> Julian
>
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