Ian,
All the connectors are wired in parallel, so you can save a lot on
flash tchotskes by using the extra connectors. For example, if you
have a camera with the front socket, you can put a T20 in the shoe
and run a single cord from the socket to a T32's side socket. The
TTL autoconnector T20 (cable-shoe connector + tripod socket) is
hard to find, but you can substitute a bounce grip.
Paul
>
> Many thanks for the info and advice, I'll start searching for the bits and
> pieces here in the UK.... there are some cords available on eb*y UK which
> seem to fit the bill.
>
> regards
> Ian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:owner-olympus@Zuiko.s ls.bc.ca]On Behalf Of Larry J. Clark
> Sent: 06 August 2002 03:04
> To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [OM] Setting up multiple flash
>
>
> Ian
>
> For your T20s there is a little thing called a "TTL Auto Connector for T20".
> The T20 slides into it and then you can plug one of the TTL Auto Cords into
> the Auto Connector's socket.
>
> To link the flash units together you use the TTL Auto Cords. They are
> available in .3M, .6M (coiled) 2M, and 5M lengths. To get them all together
> you'll need the TTL Connector T -- a rubbery block with three TTL connectors
> on one side and one TTL connector on the other.
>
> In normal configuration you'll need one TTL Auto Cord to connect between the
> camera and the TTL Connector T. Then three TTL Auto Cords of appropriate
> length, one running to each flash unit. You could reduce the number of
> cords by mounting one T20 on the camera for a fill light (perhaps with a
> piece of paper over the tube to act as a diffuser). I see the TTL Auto
> Connector for T20 around at shows now and then...But they can also be a
> difficult item to find. Mounting a T20 one as a fill light (on camera or on
> a Bounce Grip 2) reduces the need for that component. In this respect the
> T32 is sometimes a little easier to deal with.
>
> John Hermanson has the Cords and Connector Ts for sale on his site, so you
> can get an idea of the value. Also, KEH has some of these items in stock
> now.
>
> For studio, a common configuration is one moderate fill light (T20, maybe
> with diffuser?) close to the lens axis (fills in the subject and reduces
> deep shadows), the main light (T32) off axis to one side or the other
> (allows shadow details on the subject), and a moderate light (T20) coming
> from the opposite rear quarter. If you have a library near, check out some
> books, since there are a few basic, traditional setups that get you through
> 950f the situations. The biggest problem you'll have with small strobes
> is that you don't have a modeling light to let you visualize how your
> configuration is working...You have to wait for the pictures. Don't forget
> about reflectors...These can be as simple as white foam core board. Or you
> can make them with little squares of heavy aluminum foil on a board
> (tedious), or spray silver paint on a light weight board (don't try to
> duplicate chrome plating -- you'll get hot spots).
>
> Larry
>
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>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > [mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of IanG
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 11:42 AM
> >
> >
> > I'd like to try a three flash gun setup with my OM4, all off
> > camera. I've a
> > T32 and can get hold of a couple of T20s quite easily but could somebody
> > please advise as to what cords and connectors I need and how they
> > fit. There
> > are a few things available on eb*y but I'd like to be sure they will work
> > before I bid.
> >
> > Any advice on setup would also be much appreciated - I seem to be doing
> > studio still life and macro at the moment.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ian
>
>
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