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RE: [OM] Developing B+W -- how many shots actually see enlargemen t?

Subject: RE: [OM] Developing B+W -- how many shots actually see enlargemen t?
From: Tom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:56:43 -0400
  On Monday, April 29, 2002 at 11:31, Daniel J. Mitchell 
  <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  wrote re "RE: [OM] Developing B+W -- how many" saying:
  ...
  > > You can save time and rachet off a bunch of 4x5 prints easily
  > > enough by running a single picture through the entire process
  > > and making sure that the exposure is correct.  If this shot's
  > > exposure is representative of the rest of the roll you can fly
  > > through an entire roll in just a few minutes.  Put your
  > > unexposed sheets of paper in a lightsafe box on your left and
  > > put the exposed sheets of paper in a lightsafe box on your
  > > right.  Start with the beginning of the roll, expose, advance,
  > > expose, advance,... meanwhile storing the exposed sheets for
  > > later development.  Once you get half the roll done, stop and
  > > process the batch all together under one timer-run.  Use your
  > > hands to shuffle the sheets in the chemistry.
  > 
  >  Which I'd never thought of. I've only been printing up 8x10s so far so I
  > have lots of image to work with and see what's going on -- so it just didn't
  > occur to me that I could put more than one shot in the chemicals at the same
  > time. I'll need another light proof box to stop the exposed-but-not-printed
  > paper from getting messed up, but that's easy enough. This is going to make
  > my life a _lot_ quicker.

  Shuffling
- use trays one size larger than the print, e.g. 11x14 for 8x10 prints
- have an 4-5cm depth of solution
- don't use a "stop bath" since you're likely to put some of the acid into 
  the developer; use a deep water tray or circulating bath
- use a paper developer dilution that allows 1-2 minute developing, not 30-
  60 seconds.

  For the shuffling, the usual procedure is to:
- note the time, or set the clock
- put the paper in on top, one at a time, using a dry hand to put it in, 
  and a wet hand to make sure it's all wetted.
- once all the prints are in, stabilise with one hand, slide the bottom 
  print out and put it on the top, then push down to wet it all
- repeat continuously, until...
- when a print looks done, put it in the water bath & swish around for a 
  second or two.
  - avoid more than 3 minutes in the developer to avoid fog
- after all prints are in the water bath, then you can transfer them, one 
  by one, to the fixer in the same manner (this time, you can let them drain 
  a bit). Or squeeze them together into a solid brick & transfer them all at 
  once with a minimum of attached water.

  If something needs a little burning in, you can encourage the development 
  by rubbing the area with a finger. The extra heat and agitation will 
  encourage development. Just do it for a second or three every time you see 
  it.

  To avoid developing alergies, and to improve the grip, you may wish to use 
  rubber or disposable gloves.

  Tom
  --------------- http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Olympus-Documentation
  tOM Trottier, ICQ:57647974    http://abacurial.com
        758 Albert St, Ottawa ON Canada K1R 7V8 
        +1 613 860-6633 fax:231-6115 N45.412 W75.714
  "The moment one gives close attention to anything, 
  even a blade of grass, it becomes a mysterious, 
  awesome, indescribably magnificent world in itself -- 
  Henry Miller, 1891-1980


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