Eric,
I dont have a light metre unfortunately. I have had to leave it to guess work
which is a little annoying but pleasurable when exposures turn out right when
there not indicated under the 2 second mark on my bodies (OM10, 2n and soon 4Ti
- yay!) in 'M' mode.
A hint for slide film which has always worked for me - exposure is tricky here
and there but you will get the hang of it. If im not shooting actions shots
(which is probably 100r less of all my shots) I always use manual mode 'M'.
Complete control is gratifying - your telling the camera almost exactly what to
do. Ive never shot a landscape with 'A' mode. When your using filters and or a
number of them (Polarizers, Natural Densities) you also may have to compensate
for exposure stops if need be. This is more easily compensated for in 'M' for
exposure reasons.
Also, if you havnt done slide shooting before, shoot some consumer film. Pro
slide film is rediculously expensive at times. For eg, Kodak Elite Chrome and
Fuji Sensia II are examples.
If you have tendancies to continually strive for the best in your photo
qualities and you like what you get from the slides - youll never turn back to
print for all purposes. Thats what happened to me and my bank account (lol).
I use print for dark / night shooting sometimes (eg, Fuji 800 standard and
PRESS 800!) and for flash photos at night. Alternatively, Kodak B & W Select
and Illford XP2 ISO 400 C41 process films are good to minimise costs associated
with traditional B&W processing which is expensive. I therefore shoot a few
rolls and pick the ones which would be good traditionally processed and blown
up.
Enjoy,
Damo
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