The only suggestions i have would be to use a chemical stop bath (Kodak
indicator, etc...) instead of just rinsing with water. It will help keep
your fixer from being neutralized. One quart of fixer is generally good
for about 70-100 rolls of 36 exp. film or 100 8x10 prints. I think thats
the right number, but you might want to check the data sheets for the
chemicals you actually use.
Using a hypo clearing agent after fixing will also cut your washing times,
and save water. I use Heico permawash, since its available locally and
cheaper than kodak's offerings.
I cant' remember if they recommend a pre-soak before the developer, but
thats usually a good idea as well.
My developing process usually goes like this:
1. Pre-soak (water tempered to developer temperature)
2. Develop (time/temp dictated by data sheets and past experience)
3. Stop bath (30 seconds, continuous inversions of the tank)
4. Rinse (fill tank twice with water and dump)
5. Fix (3-5 Minutes. More time for tmax emulsions, or if the fixer is
getting old)
6. Rinse (fill tank twice)
7. Permawash (1 min continuous agitation)
8. Wash (3-5 minutes)
9. Photo-Flo (30 sec, minimal agitation)
10. Hang to dry. I don't touch the film after the wetting agent.
And of course, i use this process to soup all my oly images :)
Mike
On Friday, February 15, 2002, at 12:33 PM, Daniel J. Mitchell wrote:
Just to check I know what I'm doing here, from those who've done this
before -- are the instructions at
http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwfilmdev.html right? From previous threads
here about developing it sounds pretty much correct, but I'm just trying
to
make sure I'm not missing something..
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