Hi,
Re:"A good substitute for mirror lock-up and aperture pre-fire, with
no annoying beeping, AND that gives you and not the self timer
control over exactly when the shutter is tripped is to add
vibration-absorbing weight to the camera and lens. This works,
and here's how I've done it and how you can do it too! <G>
Go to your friendly neighborhood gun store, one that sells
reloading supplies and equipment, and buy 10 or so pounds of No. 5
or 6 lead shot, the stuff shotgun shells are loaded with."
This is what I do, and it weighs a lot less.
In my camera bag I always have 3 - 4 metres of heavy cord ( here we call it
binder-twine - it is used for sheaves of wheat and bales of hay), and also a
couple of what we call stretchies or shock-cord. Strands of heavy-duty rubber
coated in cloth braid, ends knotted, and plastic-coated metal hooks at the
ends.
The cord is used for tying intruding vegetation out of the way in gardens and
parks where cutting is not allowed - but it has other uses.
The shock-cord - fasten the hooks into the camera mount at the apex of the
tripod so that the rest is left dangling beneath in a loop like a stirrup. If
you
are in serious boulder country, use the heavy duty cord to tie a heavy boulder
into the loop. Otherwise, your camera bag. Either so that their weight
comes fully to bear on the tripod.
If neither of those works, put your foot in it and stand on it with all your
weight so the camera and tripod are REALLY fastened to the ground. If your
foot is in serious contact with the ground, none of your body shake will be
transmitted to the camera.
And you've got at most 6 oz or so of shock-cord to carry.
Works fine with my Gitzo 320 and Manfrotto head except when the legs are
splayed wide for shots close to the ground and the soil etc is soft.
Brian
----------------------------------------------------------
Brian Swale e-mail bj@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
140 Panorama Road
Christchurch 8008
New Zealand
Tel: +64 3 326-7447
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