When it is true that Tri-x pushed to 1600 and above is working fine, I =
will also try it on concert shots.
Bernd M=F6ller
Bernd, (yes, that's how your last name appears on the digest)
Pushed Tri-X is an old standby, but I would suggest you compare it with
Ilford Delta 3200 and Fuji Neopan 1600. These are much newer films, and may
be an improvement. Then again, they may not, as I understand that their
actual speeds are more in the area of 800, and the recommended development
times are actually a push. I'm not sure I understand this.
Although I have souped a ton (perhaps literally) of Tri-X in D76, from 35 to
8x10, it's been years since I have done any. Now, I only soup my own when I
want to use Rodinal,, for its distinctive look. For years, my lab used the
commercial equivalent of D76, really just the same as the home version, but
optimized for a volume replenished system. Several years ago, they changed
to Xtol. It seems that almost the entire world has taken on this new product
as the perfect developer. I don't know, however, how well it works for
pushing.
An interesting sidelight. Some of you may remember that I commented several
months ago about a substantial speed gain using FP4 in Xtol, not seen with
other films. At the time, I forgot to mention that I had the same result
with one other film. Rarely, I use Fuji 1600 for street photography after
dark. Although I have not tested it, and I will before my November trip to
Italy, I suspect a one stop gain. Still don't understand this situation, as
it doesn't exist with other films I have used in Xtol, Plus-X and Pan-F.
Maybe it's something I ate.
Bill Pearce
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