That is what I was referring to. A little impact would pop the tubes out of
their tracks. A factory mod with new tubes corrected it but is /was a big
job.
John Hermanson
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----- Original Message -----
From: <clintonr@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] IS-10 Question
| Barry,
|
| This (below) reminds me -- early IS-10's were also very susceptible to
bumps and
| impacts to the front lens group (esp. with that bulky lens cap Oly
supplied!)
| which would cause the threads to cross and jam. Look closely at the front
edge
| of the front group -- if it's higher on one side than the other, that's
what's
| happened. If so, when you turn the camera on, the lens will extend but
the
| front lens group will not turn in and out as it should -- you'll just hear
the
| little focusing motor strain as it tries to focus.
|
| If you work gently, you may be able to correct this on your own and get
the
| camera working again. Turn the camera on so the lens extends. Note the
high
| and low sides of the front group -- with the camera on it's back, turn it
so the
| high and low sides of the mis-aligned front lens are in line in front of
you
| (one toward you, the other away, either way it doesn't matter which).
Lace your
| fingers together, palms down, and lower them over the lens -- now gently
but
| firmly squeeze on both sides of the front edge of the lens barrel with the
balls
| of your hands, like a vice. This should flex the barrel enough to allow
the
| threads to jump back into track with a noticable >>pop<<.
|
| We've done this dozens of times with no ill effects.
|
|
|
| John Hermanson wrote:
|
| > early IS-10s had a lot of trouble with zoom tubes that would come
disengaged
| > from each other.
|
|
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