The OM-4T, and OM-4Ti both come in black, and both are titanium, and both are
the same identical camera. Champagne bodies are simply the oldest/original
ones.
Larry
"John A. Lind" wrote:
> At 08:58 12/31/00 , Chris pondered:
>
> I'll weigh in on the 4T versus 2S. Actually there are four bodies in this
> class, the OM-2S, OM-4, OM-4T (black) and OM-4ti (titanium).
>
> In operation, the OM-4, 4T and 4ti are all the same (except for one flash
> mode).
> (1) There is no difference other than the color of the 4T and 4ti. Other
> than updated circuits that are still replaceable and the titanium body
> caps, the difference between a 4 and 4T/ti is the ability of the 4T/ti to
> use an F-280 flash in Super FP mode (you can use the flash at any shutter
> speed). That said, the GN of the F-280 plummets as you increase shutter
> speed, as with any FP strobe or FP flash bulbs. The T-series flashes work
> on all of them. Supposedly, the black finish on the 4T wears off
> ("brasses") relatively easily compared to brass body caps.
> (2) The OM-4 is very slightly heavier with brass body caps. The one
> caution about an OM-4 is the battery-eating syndrome. It has an older
> circuit and a few of them eat batteries. I have an OM-4 and it goes
> through them about twice a year which is about what it should do. The
> circuits are no longer available for the OM-4. Although the circuit can be
> replaced with an OM-4T circuit it's not cost effective to do so (it doesn't
> add super FP mode either).
>
> The OM-2S is a cousin of the OM-4 with a Program mode in addition to Manual
> and Auto. The Manual Mode only has spot metering, and the spot metering is
> only activated in Manual mode. This is one drawback to the design, but not
> a biggie IMO. The Program mode can be handy if you want to use it like a
> manual focus P&S, but you cannot bias the program to favor faster or slower
> shutter speeds (and wider or narrower apertures) as you can with more
> modern program modes. The mirror design is slightly different and takes
> longer to travel up and return. This means a motor drive in Continuous
> mode can only shoot it about 60% as fast as the other "single digit" OM
> bodies. Not a problem if you don't use a motor drive in Continuous mode
> all the time.
>
> Two potential issues with the OM-2S in addition to a circuit that can no
> longer be replaced:
> (1) The flash ready signal in the viewfinder on earlier ones is green and
> is powered by the camera batteries. These will eat the camera batteries if
> you use a flash frequently and leave the flash on when you do. The later
> ones and older ones converted to a newer flash ready circuit power a red
> LED in the viewfinder using the flash, not the camera batteries.
> (2) A few will also exhibit the "flying shutter string" phenomenon. The
> shutter strings pull the curtains across the film gate. If one of the
> strings comes loose it will fly around in front of the film gate as the
> shutter travels causing mysterious shadowing on the images. There is a
> test for this described in the OM FAQ.
>
> As with Tom, I would recommend finding an OM-1n or OM-2n body to start with
> . . . with a Shoe 4 that isn't cracked . . . as you stated you're on a
> budget. As you mentioned an OM-4T and an OM-2S you will probably be more
> interested in the OM-2n as the OM-1n is Manual mode only and the 2n has an
> Auto mode. The chrome ones are less expensive with a very durable finish.
> Be forewarned a black one with excellent cosmetics (no dings, engraving or
> brassing) will be noticeably more expensive. Both are very reliable
> workhorses; they seem to run forever if reasonably cared for. If you find
> one of these with the Shoe 4 on it, take the shoe off and inspect the prism
> housing for dents . . . sometimes caused by bashing the Shoe 4 into
> something. Just because the shoe isn't cracked doesn't mean some previous
> shoe gave it's life in a bashing and left a dented housing behind.
>
> For more on these, and other bodies, see Lee Hawkins/Michael Covington's
> (et al.) OM FAQ and OM Buying FAQ hosted by Lee Hawkins here:
> http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/
> http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/olympus.faq.html
> http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/buying-used-om.faq.html
>
> Sorry I cannot help you with sources in Edmonton. There are several
> Albertans on the list who can probably help. My experience with eBay has
> been good . . . buying and selling . . . but you *must* read the item
> description *very* carefully. If you have any fear, uncertainty or doubts
> . . . ask and get a reply to your satisfaction from the seller before
> bidding. Unfortunately there are some sellers who will try to obscure a
> non-functioning camera by stating evasive and ambiguous things like "I
> don't know anything about this XXXXX, so I don't know if it works or not,"
> or "It doesn't have batteries in it, so I can't tell if it works." This
> usually means it doesn't!
>
> There is a marvelous database of customer feedback about camera dealers in
> the Neighbor-to-Neighbor area on Phil Greenspun's "photo.net" site. As
> hard as they might try, not even B&H or KEH can make every customer happy,
> so look at the drift of all the postings for a particular dealer. It's not
> hard to spot the real slugs and theives in the business (a couple of them
> are major photo journal advertisers) . . . and the ones who want your
> repeat business for a long time.
>
> http://www.photo.net/neighbor/one-subcategory?id=2
>
> -- John
>
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