Hal,
Whether or not you use a TTL (Camera monitors flash output and controls
flash through the lens) flash, or an Auto-type (Flash alone determines
proper amount of light), or simply a full manual flash with variable output,
can often vary with the circumstances (background, amount of time to
calculate values, fixed environment).
If the background cannot be controlled, or is quite a distance from the
subject, it is often best not to use TTL. There will likely be over
compensation for the background and the subject will be over exposed.
If exposure, focusing or composition time is short (sports, journalism), it
is likely best to use TTL. Also good for standard portraits.
If the setting is fixed and never varies (portrait studio, or living room),
standard flash - even in non-Auto will work once proper exposures have been
determined by flash meter or trial and error.
Each method can have its advantages, as well as downsides.
Different flashes like the T-20 and T32 have some things in common:
Capable of working TTL/OTF or Auto on a 2n and later camera.
Small size and relatively powerful for size.
Made by Olympus (high quality).
The T-20 and T-32 differ mainly in:
size (T-32 is bigger,
power (T-32 has a lot more of it),
batteries (T-20 uses 2 AA's, T-32 uses 4),
recycle time (T-32 is faster,
angle of coverage (T-20 covers 35mm, T-32 covers 24),
Bounce capability (T-20 no),
Add-on filters (T-20 no)
Red eye potential (T-20 is more likely since it sits closer to the lens)
Weight (T-20 is less)
Additional flash connectors (T-20 has none and requires T-20 Auto Connector
for this function)
A Vivitar 283 is an Auto or manual-only flash (functions either way). It is
not TTL capable with any camera system. It is quite powerful, but standard
angle of coverage is 35mm. Add on filters can take coverage to 21mm through
135mm. Guide # is 120 compared to T-32 at 92, but T-32 covers 24mm.
283 has bounce like T-32, but sits higher off camera reducing red eye. But,
since the 283 is higher off the camera, it is more likely to get bumped and
damage the camera hot shoe or prism housing.
For best results, virtually any flash should be used off the camera and
higher than the lens. This is one of the reasons the Bounce Grip was
developed. Also the reason that Vivitar, Sunpak and others make those hefty
Grip Handles. Put the flash there, get better photos and save the camera as
well as the flash from bumps and damage.
Hope this gets you started. It might help to point you where you want to
go. Others can also give you some good info.
Brian P. Huber
>
> I've been playing with my OM-4 for about 8 months now, and
> I've finally
> come to the decision that its time to invest in a flash (as well as a
> tungsten filter, since I wind up shooting a lot indoors).
> Unfortunately
> I have no idea what I really need, or what the difference
> between all of
> these flashes is. Does anyone know of a good primer web page that's
> worth reading, or could we start a thread on choosing a flash and what
> the differences between different flashes like the t-20, t-32, or
> something like a Vivitar 283 are?
>
> Hal Landvoigt
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