Bill,
Following is the text from a post I sent the list on this subject last week
:
Now, I don't want to start off on the wrong foot, but...
I would assume that at least one or two OM users use some other type of
camera. If it is Nikon or Canon, I think I've thought of a way that OM users
can use those "other" flash units and get cordless flash that might also be
the same effect as TTL.
This thought process started when I acquired a Nikon SU-4 for use on my old
8008s and the SB-24 I bought for $50. I had also purchased an SB-16 for $10
and wanted to see if I could get them to work together on a project that
would not allow use of cords. So, I got an SU-4. This device turns on and
off the appropriate slave as the master flash fires. Unlike a conventional
slave, the SU-4 turns the slave on and off using the TTL logic to match the
master that is controlled by the camera. That part works really well. I even
tested it.
So, I'm thinking... What if I use my OM-4 and also use my SB-24 on the SU-4,
shouldn't it have the same net effect? The SU-4 doesn't know where the
triggering flash comes from and the SB-24 sure doesn't know. So, I tested
it, it works!!!
Now, take it a step further. I've got Sunpak, Metz, Vivitar, Nikon and
Olympus flash units. I can use the Ikelite wireless flash trigger (similar
to the Nikon SU-4 except there are versions for Nikon and Canon). Use my
OM-4 and trigger other non-OM flash units in concert with my T-32. This
could help folks who want to use cordless flash and didn't get any help from
Olympus.
I really apologize for mentioning those other names here, but couldn't think
of a way to get around it. Please forgive me.
Comments?
Brian P. Huber
If you're using TTL, then the above methods would be the only way to do it
in a cordless fashion.
If you're simply using a T-20 or T-32 in Auto Mode (OM-1), then any good
slave trigger would work. Wein makes good ones, Vivitar has had the SL-2
slave on the market for ~ 20+ years and it is reliable.
If you want to get serious about slaves, and have problems with other
flashes triggering your own (weddings, sports events), then you should look
at Infrared or wireless slaves. The best Infrareds are made by Wein, the
best wireless for the money are likely the Quantum 4 series.
(2) I have a preference for the T32 because it has 1. higher output (so you
can use smaller F/stops and also get out longer distances, 2. covers 24mm
and 3. sits higher off the shoe so there is less chance of red eye.
The red eye issue is also a reason to look at other OM-compatible flashes.
The Vivitar 283 and 285, which are AUTO-type flashes (no TTL) will have same
basic function as a T32, but also have getter bounce ability and sit higher
off the camera reducing chances for red eye. 283's new are ~$75, 285's are
~95 new. 283's used go for ~$50+ .
But, the best way to reduce red eye and also get better balanced light is to
get the flash off the camera. That way you don't need a shoe, just use the
PC socket.
The Sunpak 383 is similar in appearance to the Vivitars but also has a
swivel function in addition to bounce ability. Then, when you are holding
the camera vertically, you can sill get light reflected from the ceiling.
383's are ~$100.
Although it is great to stick with Olympus flash units, if you have other
camera systems, it is more efficient and less expensive to use flashes made
by other companies like I mentioned above. That way, you can simply change
adapters and keep using the same flash rather than buying additional flash
units in duplication of function.
Hope this starts to answer you questions, don't hesitate to ask more!
Brian P. Huber
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of NSURIT@xxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 3:01 PM
To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [OM] Slave Unit with T32 or T20 flash and OM1 flash question
1) Is there a slave unit that would work with the T32 and/or T20 flash?
This
seems like an easier method than stringing wires and connecting everything
together. If there is a unit that works with these flashes, which one is
it
and do you need any special attachments to connect it?
2) What flash has experience shown works best with the original OM1s (as
opposed to the OM1n)? I am assuming it would require a Shoe 1.
Thanks in advance for letting me drain your brains. Bill Barber
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