Micky wondered:
>I wonder how the 283 for bounce, and the T32 for direct would work. I am not
>sure how well the two automatic flash systems would play. Their independent
>processes might be non productive. I guess I need to get mutliple T32s
>going. If I cable the camera to the flash on the BG2, will it trigger
>another flash if it's connected by a cable from the handle? At this time,
>I'm not sure I see the need for more than 2 flashes, and could possibly
>eliminate the need for the multiconnector. Would that work??
>
>As always, Thanks Much!!
>Mickey
I have used a T-32 in the shoe and another T-32 in the BG-2 on an OM-4,
mounted on the right under a Winder 2 with a trigger cord between the BG-2
and Winder 2. The combination does get heavy with all the AA's and C's in
everything, and I recommend using a grip strap on the BG-2 if you have one.
When doing that I run a straight 0.3m T cable between the two T-32's. The
hot shoe signals the T-32 in the shoe and the cable carries all the signals
to the T-32 in the BG-2 just fine. Just remember the BG-2, if you have C
cells in it will recharge the BG-2 T-32 much faster and the AA's in the
shoe mounted one will give out sooner. For me it has worked just fine
horizontal. Vertical can occasionally get shadows on the opposite side of
the flash heads and you *must* turn it so the BG-2 flash stays *above* the
lens. Otherwise you *will* get some ugly shadows!
I have also used the pair of T-32's in Normal Auto operating from their
internal sensors . . . on the Mamiya M645 (cold shoe on hand grip and hot
shoe on prism) and on the OM-1n with a Shoe 4 and BG-2 setup similar to the
OM-4. That works just fine too. The T cable carries the flash trigger and
apparently the quench just fine between the two.
If you use the 383 which has much more GN oomph than a T-32, then I
recommend bouncing it and using the T-32 for direct lighting and obtaining
catch lights in the eyes. In addition I've also used a single T-32 with a
Sunpak 383, which is very similar to your Vivitar 283, in Normal Auto with
each sensor being allowed to quench each flash independently. That has
also worked satisfactorily . . . provided both are set for the same
aperture being used on the lens.
As I recall, you can tilt the 283 head for bounce without tilting the
sensor. You want the sensor facing forward in the same direction as the
lens. By virtue of the bounce, it will quench the 283 when enough direct
light hits it, just as the T-32 will, regardless of the source. (They will
both trigger simultaneously.) As a result you should end up with less
light on the subject from the bounced 283 than the direct T-32 . . .
because the 283 is being bounced. Although one may quench slightly sooner
than the other, the difference should be very slight.
>From your earlier description of the harsh, ruddy skin tones, it sounds as
if you had too much direct strobe too close. What causes the harsh redness
is the strobe's light being strong enough to penetrate below the surface of
the skin and reflect off the blood in the capillaries. It is a skin
version of red-eye and is harshest in very fair skinned Caucasians with a
natural pink undertone to the flesh (as compared to more swarthy olive
complexions or other races with darker skin in which the effect can still
be there, but not as prominent). Is it possible to use a longer focal
length and move back a bit farther (what length were you using)? I know
you may be constrained by room size. In that case, do you have a diffuser
panel (the white 21mm WA adapter) for the T-32 . . . or something similar?
I don't like using anything shorter than a 50mm even for larger groupings
for a myriad of reasons including this one (getting too close with a
powerful strobe).
-- John
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