I'll jump, whether you want me to or not <g>.
Of course, the high dollar lenses, such as the 180/2 would be perfect, but I
tend to knock them out of the way quickly. Some of this clearly depends on
your budget, but one fine lens to consider, pricey still at around $500, is
the 180/2.8. Pretty fast for a telephoto, pretty small for its speed, I've
used it for several of my kids events and like it a lot. You still need to
be fairly close to the stage for any face closeups, but 'stage size' shots
are good from a distance. Pair it up with Fuji 800 or even Fuji 1600 and
you're all set.
For a lot less money, the 200/4 or the 65-200/4 are also nice choices, but
slower.
Tom
> Hi Robert,
>
> thanks for the good advice.
>
> > Tony Halmarack writes:
> >
> > << > Can anyone please advice me on a flash system the will be suitable
for
> > general purpose outdoor use please? >>
> >
> > Tony, please understand that any flash you use for photographing
outdoors, in
> > concert halls, towards the stage in an auditorium/playhouse, etc. is not
> > going to behave as you might think.
>
> Oh well! I still often fall for thinking that these problems can be solved
by
> throwing money in the most obvious direction. I'm not as firmly convinced
as I
> used to be though, so what you say comes as only a small shock.
>
> > Flashes are designed for the most part to
> > be used in more confined places and are intended to produce a large part
of
> > the illumination for the photograph from light bounced off or reflected
from
> > walls and ceilings. This tends to intensify the effect of the light
produced.
> > This works very well in regular sized rooms, but in outdoor areas and
large
> > open spaces this bounce light is virtually nonexistent. Therefore the
light
> > from the flash will not be augmented by reflected light and will have to
be
> > strong enought to reach the subject through direct frontal lighting.
That
> > takes a strong directional focus flash. i.e. one with a rather narrow
beam.
> > Otherwise, use of the flash may be limited to frontal lighting of close
> > subjects.
>
> Well, I've already come to terms with the idea of a flash extender for my
> prospective T32.
> Even then, from what you say, It would still be a struggle to turn night
into
> day.
>
> > Those little firefly-like flashes you see in stadiums and such from
point and
> > shoot cameras are doing no more than creating little flashes of light
from
> > the cameras. Anything beyond 10-12 feet isn't going to benefit in the
> > slightest. The light emitted allows you to see that the camera flashed,
but
> > is ineffective in reaching long distances or lighting large expanses.
It's
> > like lighting a match outside in the dark attempting to see something 50
> > yards away.Put another way, iIt's like adjusting your hose nozzle to
fine
> > spray and then trying to shoot the water across the street. It won't
reach.
>
> Yes but aren't all those guys making useless little flashes in the dark
going to
> think I'm
> trying to piggy-back on their illumination efforts if I start clicking
away in
> my usual unspectacular fashion?
>
> > If there is enough ambient light from other sources, you can still get
your
> > photographs without flash. It requires a suitable lens, a wide aperture,
an
> > appropriate shutter speed and a fast film. If you are shooting stills, a
> > tripod and extended exposure times may net you some nice shots.
>
> I've got the tripod, appropriate ( I think) shutter speed and I can get
the fast
> film, I guess.
> So that leaves the choice and purchase of a suitable lens. Can you please
offer
> any suggestions on this one?
>
> > Hope this helps.
>
> Very educational Robert. It's certainly helped me to remember that
solutions
> often aren't as simple as they first appear to be. So what's new? :-)
>
> Ta ra,
>
> Tony Halmarack
> Email: tony.halmarack@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
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