George S. writes:
<< I have to say that I have rarely seen a photo on the web with such
detail that is evident on the computer screen.
May I dare to ask the scanning resolution/details ? >>
I don't claim to know what I am doing, but I kept notes while learning
and have just repeated what has worked over time.
1. Scan on a PhotoSmart Photo Scanner at 2400 d.p.i.
2. Straight output to a .tif file (21 MB)
Then in Photoshop 4.0 -
3. Crop
4. Unsharp masking at 75% (amount), 1.2 (radius), 1 (threshold) - or
something near those levels, elsewise the resulting image is too grainy
and/or halo-like
5. Image | Adjust | Auto Levels (if the effect is worse, then Undo)
6. Image | Adjust | Curves (make the image look like it really did,
often by applying some curve to the midtones and perhaps lightening the
shadows to account for the lack of deep black on a monitor or in a paper
print. This control is much better than Brightness/Contrast)
6a. Image | Adjust | Color Balance (modify if color casted, but you
better know the difference between what you see on the monitor and what
you get on your printer or on most other peoples monitors)
7. Image | Image Size (select Constrain Proportions and select Resample
Image, then choose about 180-200 d.p.i. for an Epson printer output or
72 d.p.i. [out of habit!!!] and give it your required inchs for the
maximum dimension.
8. File | Save (to have a scaled down .tif with your tweaking - rename
if desired)
9. File | Save As, then choose .JPG, then choose 6 compression or
higher.
This one was 9 inches high (too much for a 1024 x 768 monitor to get on
screen) and a 6 compression.
Proper contrast and brightness can give one the effect of sharpness, as
will unsharp masking when not over done (e.g., halos appear adjacent to
dark lines and curves).
Gary Reese
Las Vegas, NV
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