In regards to the use of the 20mm/f2.0 macro lens, I agree with what Jan said
about the
difficulty in in focusing this lens on something like a tripod. I've never
attempted that
feat. However I used the OM Macro Stand VST with the T10 flash with the
modeling light, and
it is not difficult at all with a little practice and the right touch on the
bellows
adjusting knobs. I agree there are few times when you really need or want that
much
magnification, however, when you do this lens is a pleasure to use. As said a
while back
I've used this lens on cut gem stones for checking cutting marks and inclusions
for
identification purposes. It is a wonderful tool for that. Since the 38mm is
perfect for
the current industry size of micro chips and wafers, I can't really use the
20mm for that.
I've even put the 2x-A teleconverter on the camera before the bellows and got
some
incredible magnification on this lens. Again, there is not many uses for this.
A while back
when I originally started this topic (more macro posts, please) I was told some
great
subjects for macro work. Someone (maybe Jan) suggested cloth. Well through
this 20mm lens
the tiniest threads look like rope. You're so damn close that you start seeing
boring
structure. I guess when you start getting to 100x you might as well be in a
scientific
environment. So with the 2x-A and the 20mm with the bellows stretched out I'm
getting
somewhere around 32x. This is even too much magnification for diamonds. Again
the most
important thing is to use a solid stand. I think the Macro Stand VST and a
precise use of
the bellows knob are the most critical factors. I've tried this on the OM Copy
Stand and it
seemed ok. But the VST feels much more solid and works better being closer to
your face. Oh
one more thing ... when using the T-Power Control with the Ring Flash ... Don't
mount it on
the hot shoe on the camera. I throws off the balance and adds too much
unnecessary weight to
the rig. Yes, high magnification can get very anal.
Phillip Franklin
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