Wayne,
In re-reading your post, I think I see what your question was as to the use of
the gray
card. When using the 1 degree flash spot meter you will be taking 8 spots on
the same color
and texture. Basically when shooting a 4 foot wide canvas you will easily be
able to spot 8
similar colors (mid, hi, and shadow). Just make sure that the stops are very
close between
like colors all over the large canvas. On a 4 foot canvas thats not very many
spots. So in
essence there will be 24 spot readings in all if you really want to go by the
book.
Sometimes I would just take the 8 highlight spots and let it go at that if they
came out
better than a 1/3 stop. But on a difficult piece it's best to go after
lighting the
midtones at first. This will make it much easier to ajust for the highlights
and shadows on
the next 8 spots. So if you can get the midtones to match it's probably easier
to then make
the minor adjustments for the highlights. If things are looking good you can
then avoid
taking too many shadow spots. Sometimes just two at opposite ends of the work
will be all
that's reguired for the most anal. Usually the movements in the lights at this
point are
just ever so gentle. That is why having good stands with good hardware is
really very
important.
So I see what you mean by taking several gray card readings across the work
will be
considered even lighting sources. That is certainly true and a good starting
pont. However
capturing exact contrast and color is taking it all the way. You can then use a
gray card to
capture the reflections of certain key colors through out the work. This can
be another
approach as to how to spot readings can be used to assure color/contrast
control.
Since this post was intended for Barry's use I certainly want to be as clear as
I possibly
can. Sometimes this can be like writing software documentation or worse.
Phillip Franklin
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