In a message dated 9/23/1999 "M. Stephens" <mike1964@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
<< I'll be going to the Houston GP on Sunday for the first time and was
wondering if anyone has tips on shooting pics from the grandstands. We
have
seats in the Turn 2 grandstands. Hopefully will also be able to roam
around
a bit. I have several OMs (1,2n, 2s, 4, 4T) and 35, 35-70, 50, 85, 135,
200
Zuikos and an OM 2X converter. Film suggestions are also welcome. I
would
like to go as "light" as possible on the gear, so I was thinking of
taking
two bodies, the 35-70, 135, 200 and the 2xA. >>
Can I say I wish I could join you! I'll offer some general advice and
then we can take this off list if you want any additional details and
tips. I shoot Provia almost exclusively so I can't give much advice on
negative film. I am picky about grain and like to enlarge to 11x14 and
beyond (Ilfochrome). Provia flat works for me and seems to be a popular
choice (as is Velvia...but you need really fast lenses).
I actually go far "lighter" than most motor sports photograpers and
lighter than you plan to as well. This because I tend to hike many miles
over a race weekend (but tracks often have media shuttle vans now). I
normally carry with me my OM2s with a Tamron SP 60-300 mounted and my
Zuiko 200 f4 in my pocket (vest or small pack). I will have in the
parking lot my old OM1 body just in case the OM2s fails me but in the
14+ years I have had it, it has yet to do so. On rare occasion I even
carry it. I shy away from the 20k$ aresnals most pros schlep
around...but someday if I am ever that flush with cash I may go that
route too. For me super fast and sharp lenses will come before new bodys
and I don't find I "need" AF really.
I have no idea the track layout at Houston (pray for no rain!!!!). I am
also unsure if you will be able to get clear shots or will be shooting
through the catch fence. Some interesting effects can be obtained
panning through the fence but straight shots are iffy. Sometimes you can
blur out the fence enough with a long lens (200 w 2x perhaps). My
technique involves prefocusing on a spot on course (tire rubber,
skidmarks, etc. are all good to focus on). To do this you need to watch
the cars and follow "the racing line" to see where they will be when you
are going to release the shutter. Pick something in the background that
tells you when to press the shutter release. You have litteraly a
fraction of a second to compose and shoot. Generally you will be panning
unless the shot is straight on. You can "cheat" and burn off hundreds of
frames with the MD if you wish. I tend to shoot one frame at a time very
carefully, and after years of practice do get a good percentage of
keepers. I generally allow the OM2s to auto expose and most of the time
it is not a problem. If your lighting is tricky (and it often is at the
track because you don't have much control of location from a
grandstand), consider yourself blessed to have a couple OM4s
(someday...but new lenses first for me).
The 200 with converter is going to be too long and too slow I have a
feeling. The 135 with converter will probably be very useful, as would
the 35-70 perhaps. Your selections of what to take given what you have
is just about right. The longest I would pan with handheld is at around
300mm. Ideally a 70 - 210ish f2.8 zoom with a good quality converter
would be really nice. Composing with fixed focal length lenses from a
grandstand adds to the challange.
Hope this helps, have a great time!!!! Let me know wher I can see what
you got if you are able to get scans and put them up on the net. I also
invite you to stop by my web site to browse the image libraries for
inspiration.
Mike Veglia
Motor Sport Visions Photography
www.motorsportvisions.com
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