Alex,
Just got back from vacation, perhaps your question has already been
answered, if not, here goes:
"the lower part has a hole at the front " "and another switch at the back
with three coloured dots (red, orange and blue"
The hole in the front is the sensor when the flash is used in "normal" mode
with any non-TTL-type camera (OM-1).
Using the three colored dots will allow you to set the aperture on you lens
to one of the three suggested settings. You will see that the RED setting
at ISO 100 will give you an aperture of f/2 and a distance of ~35feet (~10
meters). BLUE gives you f/4 and ~17 feet (~5 meters) and ORANGE gives f/8
and ~8 feet (~2.5 meters) These settings are for the W (for wide angle
setting, ~35mm). N setting results in ~40 feet at RED, 20 feet at BLUE and
10 feet at ORANGE, all at same aperture as before. The T setting results in
~50 feet in RED, ~25 feet in BLUE and ~12 feet in ORANGE, again using same
apertures.
"a switch at the side that turns on a beeper when the flash is ready"
This is for the time when you need to hear the flash and can't look at ready
light. My strong opinion is that it uses battery power, so don't use it
unless needed. It can also be somewhat annoying to others.
"a yellow triangle"
On the 3500 the yellow triangle has two stated uses, in my opinion, one is
theoretical only. The yellow triangle allows you to reduce power by 1/32.
Notice the YELLOW triangle also on the ISO slide? When you set ISO to ASA
25 (DIN15), the YELLOW triangle is at ASA 200 (DIN 24). You would change
the indicated aperture from the ASA 25 f/5.6 to the new f/2.
The other use for this- using with a winder is, in my opinion, theoretical
with a 3500 since it uses only 2 batteries and has such a low guide # (80 at
ISO 100, NORMAL lens setting). It just plain won't work fast enough.
"TTL there is a green LED that I can't get to light up"
OOPS!, I mean sorry!! It should light up in any of the colored settings.
Try using the T position, RED color and then try a test flash using the
manual flash trigger. You should get a Green light. If not, something's
wrong, most likely the bottom section.
You can remove it by pressing on the small button on the left side of the
flash, bottom section. It will allow you to swing out the connector and
then you can check the contacts. Perhaps one is bent or dirty. Hopefully
that will fix the problem, otherwise you'll need to replace something.
Provided you get the 3500 to give you a Green light in one of the 3 color
settings, you can then set it to TTL. With a 2n, 2S and up, you will get
TTL exposures just like a T32 or T20 flash. Output is similar to T20,
except the 3500 does bounce flash. You might have already seen that the
3500 will also tilt down to -7 degrees for close ups, just press down a
little harder when it's set to 0 degrees.
There is also a Macro Adapter that fits on the sensor on the front of the
flash. This adapter has a fiber optic sensor that then attaches to the lens
and allows closer reading of the light received at the subject. Also
available is a DSC-1 adapter that allows the flash to be used off the
camera. It has a 2 foot coiled cable with it. Nice.
Good luck with the Green light problem. You might also check to see if the
sensor on the front is clear and not obstructed by "junk"
Brian P. Huber
Troy, OH
bphuber@xxxxxxxxxx
I have recently aquired a Vivitar flashgun the model is a 3500 Zoom
Thyristor
and apparently it is Olympus dedicated. It cost me £10 but what I didn't get
was
any manuals etc.
Is anyone familiar with this flash gun? ...it's in two parts that couple
together, , ,) and. The upper section has the flash unit
(bounce head and a zooming diffuser) and a scale at the back with lines that
correspond to the dots on the lower section, and a sliding ASA scale. (and
houses the batteries, on/off switch and light that indicates the flash is
ready).
Does 3500 mean a guide number of 35(m) at ISO 100?...and what is a
"Thyristor"??!
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