I see in the morning light that the battery pack is called an
M. 15V CONTROL PACK 2
Is there away of testing the voltage once it is reassembled and
charged up? Oh well, I've read the little logical argument again
and feel confident that these wimpy little 9 volt NiCads will
be okay especially since I often use a short cord or the long
cord and that is another voltage drop.
The threads that were stripped are the aluminum threads that
were damaged when I over tightened the round knurled knob
that is loosened by using the channel locks.
I wonder if there is a part number for that?
The center post (white nylon) was never damaged.
The threads may have been damaged when I used lock-tite
the last time I took it apart. Messy stuff that lock-tite it was to
hard to control and apply.
The Devcon "5 minute" seemed more like 20 minutes until I felt
that it was ready to apply with a tooth-pick stick. I waited until
it had a putty-like consistency so that it would not drip onto anything
like that delicate rotating switch/circuit-board.
Okay, thanks for the tip on Wall Street Camera, I'll check B&H, too.
Thanks again, Hank Hogan
PS I'm using my wife Norma's computer right now because mine is not setup
and I shall put in a new link to Lee's OLYMPUS RESOURCES there is so
much great information there.
Mark Dapoz wrote:
> Hello,
>
> > I somehow managed to strip or shear off the threads that hold the round
> > switch
> > when I over tightened it -- oops!
>
> Ouch, you have to be careful about that. I almost did it once too. I was
> thinking of ordering a few spare posts from Olympus. They're part number
> CE015500 and probably only cost a few dollars.
>
> > Now I'm glad that I took some macro photos of the switch assembly because
> > I've had to use Devcon 5 minute epoxy to put the rotating switch back in.
>
> Won't the epoxy prevent you from removing the switch? The only purpose of the
> little screw is to hold the spring down, it doesn't actually hold anything
> together. I was thinking of using blue loctite if I'd ever stripped it,
> but I don't know if loctite works between nylon and metal.
>
> > The batteries are actually so compact that I left the button connectors on
> > and
> > used little 9 volt battey connectors that I got at Radio Shack (two for
> > 89 cents?) that's about the space for four cells. I did this because
> > soldering to the metal of the battery caused heat damage to the cells. By
> > using the connectors I am sure the batteries are okay.
>
> No soldering directly to the battery is a good idea. I go to a local battery
> repair place and have them spot weld some solder tabs on them for me.
>
> > I've decided to forego the repair of the battery check light and just hope
> > that some day I'll locate another M18v Control Pack 2 -- Are they available
> > anywhere?
>
> Control Pack 1's and Control Pack 2's are basicaly the same except for the
> texture of the locking nut. Wall Street Camera seems to have quite a number
> of the packs listed in their used department for about $80. I have never
> dealt with them so I don't know what they're like.
>
> > Thanks for your help! The new improved instructions are just that and if
> > the
> > photos turn out (what a waste of good color Ektachrome VS) and they should
> > because I used my Ring Flash and newly aquired 50mm f3.5 macro lens! We
> > could have some useful photos to go along with the HTML version of the
> > Repair Guide!
>
> That would be useful, lets hope they turn out!
> -mark
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|