------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 04:59:50 -0700
From: owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Garth,
I have refurbed a number of winder1's and 2's in the last 6 months
and even made up a schematic for the winder 1 that I distributed to some list
members earlier in the year. I did not do schematics for the winder 2 but I
will send you some JPEG files with some annotated pictures of the partially
dissembled winder 2 that may be helpful along with some dissembly information.
Here are a few things to check if they have not already been
suggested by list members (I have not been following this thread so I hope I
am not duplicating too much):
1) Try use an external 6V battery eliminator. (The central terminal is
negative and the connector is 5.5mm) This bypasses the springs and contacts
on the battery pack. Thus, if this works the spring contacts or internal
wires from the battery to the external power connector need cleaning/fixing
or the internal switch on the power connector that disconnects the battery
when an external power plug is connected, is dirty or faulty.
2) If you have an ohmmeter check the continuity from one contact to the next
on the set of contacts at the back of the winder (these are for the bulk film
back) These spring loaded contacts open if you apply any pressure at all (as
a bulk back would do) so apply test leads carefully. Switch off the winder
during this test or better still remove the battery holder. If you don't have
an Ohmmeter push the contacts in and out to try to seat them correctly so
they make contact. If there is no continuity between these contacts the motor
current gets interrupted and the winder won't work. The wires to the these
contacts can also break but this requires opening to check and is unlikely
unless you have used the bulk back extensively.
3) The most likely fault is the power (single/sequence) switch which is a
gold plated printed circuit switch. This switch seems to get dirty/corroded
even when there has been no direct battery leakage onto the contacts. There
are two sets of contacts which are spring loaded against the printed circuit
board that is rotated by the switch. (The attached JPEG picture shows the
location of the switch fingers.) With care, using alcohol or switch cleaner
and some Qtips these contacts can be cleaned without dissembling the switch,
although the plastic winder base (4 screws) and metal cover underneath must
be removed to get at the contacts. An Ohmeter is almost essential to test
these switches as it is not obvious when you have cleaned them adequately.
Rotate the switch while applying the wet Qtip between the pc board and the
plated springs. The springs are relatively fragile. On one of the attached
JPG files there is some information on removing the plastic winder base.
4) Another switch that can cause problems is the "park switch" which is
another printed circuit switch approximately in the middle of the winder base
that is coupled to the gear reduction mechanism. This is a little harder to
find and requires more dissembly and care. It does not seem to get corroded
as easily as the main power switch.
5) The push button on the winder is relatively easy to check by removing the
plastic mounting piece (2 screws I think, one long and more hidden) which
mounts the push button. Check with an ohmmeter. If you have a 5.5mm plug and
ohmmeter you should be able to do some checking without unscrewing anything
as the switch is just wired across the remote plug input.
6) Check the ground on the internal printed circuit board (the part with
electronic components): The board is grounded through one or more of the
mounting screws, check the continuity and/or retighten the screws.
7) The electronics themselves seem fairly reliable but I have included a
stuffing diagram with component values in one of the attached files.
Hope this is helpful.
Tim Hughes
Hi100@xxxxxxx
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