The shutter tester the tech was using would have to have an OTF sensor to
measure auto properly. Using a plain sensor would cause overexposure.
Set your camera to manual 1/2000, open the back, remove lens, point camera
at bright light and fire the shutter while looking through shutter (body
about 12" from face). If 1/2000 is working at all you should see a short
burst of light.
If the curtains are going across without a slit of any kind, you won't see
any light.
John
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----- Original Message -----
From: Tomoko Yamamoto <tomokoy@xxxxxxxxx>
To: Olympus List <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 1999 2:34 PM
Subject: Re:[OM] Film Pressure Plate
> This morning I drove to the newest branch of Cooper's Camera Mart where
they
> were having a Canon Day. A technician from Strauss Photo Technical
Service in
> Washington, D. C. was on hand.
>
> When I handed him my two Olympus bodies, the 4 and the 4T, he reacted with
a
> question of what was going on. Technically the free camera check was for
the
> Canon cameras. I told him that the salesman at the main store sent me.
The
> gentleman behind me had an Olympus P&S in his hand and I think he was
there on
> his own.
>
> As far as the film pressure plate was concerned, the technician thought
that it
> was O.K. He reasoned that if there was some problem, it should show up in
every
> frame. I guess that our conversation got interrupted with something and I
did
> not continue the argument with him. He readjusted the plate where it
should
> have been.
>
> He also found, however, that the camera needed a new light seal and high
> shutter speeds were quite off (No 1/2000 sec for example). The technician
said
> that if I were using high shutter speeds in auto exposure mode, the slower
> shutter speeds would show up as overexposure. I thought that on the 4 and
4T,
> the shutter speeds in the automatic exposure mode were controlled
> electronically.
>
> He also found a few things wrong with my 4T including smaller departures
from
> the specs in shutter speeds. As my 4 was still under warranty, I asked
the
> store to pay for a new light seal, to which they agreed. The cost
estimate was
> around $30. Shutter adjustments, however, would be more than $100 and I
did not
> press for this repair.
>
> I was wondering on my way home how cost effective it would be to buy a
bargain
> camera body and a lens. So far it has worked as a good photo equipment
lesson
> after another. Since the store would allocate about $30 for the lens, I
guess I
> paid $145 for the body. This amount would not be sufficient to cover for
the
> needed repair exceeding $100. The store's warranty policy is that they
would
> either do the needed repair within reasonable cost or refund the money
with the
> return of the item sold.
>
> In essence, I will have to wait about two weeks to see whether the
realigned
> pressure plate would improve my repeated shots with the same settings
other than
> the self-timer activation since I left the newest branch without the 4.
>
> Last Saturday I ran the tests to determine whether my new setup of the
Cullmann
> Magic 2 tripod with and without a new telephoto support I bought from
Japan
> would work in the critical shutter speeds. I used the 4 and my M-1 for
these
> tests and I discovered the blurred results in the second and the third of
the
> shots made with the telephoto support on the lens combo (200mm/5 plus
B300) with
> cable release. The first of these shots were acceptable. The shots with
the
> self-timer and the telephoto support came out well.
>
> It looks like that I would have to repeat these tests on the 4T.
>
> One comment for Olaf et. al., I, for one, would not think that the triple
combo
> of the 2X TC + 135mm/2.8/3.5 + B300 or the like would work well. You need
a
> pretty good telephoto support than the short one I have is to make it
workable
> if at all.
>
> Tomoko Yamamoto
> mailto:tomokoy@xxxxxxxxx
> http://www.charm.net/~tomokoy/
>
>
>
>
>
>
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