Day 2 with the mount adapter. Below is what I wrote yesterday (June 11, 1999),
but did not post it because I was getting too sleepy to proof-read it.
Last night I was pushing in the DOF preview button every time during exposure
because I was using a 135mm/3.5 which has automatic aperture stop-down. When
the mount adapter goes between the EOS body and the OM lens, this auto feature
gets lost.
Today I was testing the Polaroid setup with the adapter on the EOS body with
both 35mm/2.8 and 24mm/3.5 shift lenses. My subject was the front of my church
with big Roman or Greek Revival-style columns and the tower which is located at
the bend of the L-shaped building.
My problem has been to include the front columns in their entirety at the same
time with the tower with its clock showing without distorting the perspective of
the front. I was convinced today that if I am to include the all front columns
in correct perspective, I would have a little view of the clock even with the
24mm shift. The problem is that I could not shoot from the middle of the busy
street. I could shoot from the traffic island, but the problem with that set-up
is with the 35mm shift, I could not tell whether the top of the steeple was in
the frame because of the Oak leaves blocking part of the view and with the 24mm,
there is too much of the street.
After taking several Polaroid proofs with the 35mm and 24mm shifts on the EOS
body, I ended up going back to my earlier setup of shooting from the edge of the
church ground using the 24mm shift, but including only a couple of the front
columns. If I tried to include all of them, the perspective became distorted
because the
film plane and the plane of the front of the church were no longer parallel.
Perhaps it might be possible to make a correction on the PS, but...
It was much easier to use the mount adapter today because all I was doing was
exactly what I do with the shift lenses on the OM body. The shift lenses have
manual aperture, so there is one lever missing in the mount of the lenses and it
is possible to push the preview button and it stays in. The "Auto-aperture"
lenses would go back to wide-open aperture as soon as your finger leaves the
button.
On the OM to EOS adapter, it is possible to reverse the preset lever so that
the aperture would stop down as you rotate the aperture ring. With this setup,
you will compose and focus at f=3.5 or the largest aperture of a given lens,
then rotate the ring to a desirable aperture. Then the VF darkens, but with
aperture priority automatic exposure metering on the EOS body, it exposes O.K.
even though the LCD panel says 0 aperture. With the Polaroid back on, I could
not do manual metering. You need a regular back to set some switch. Before I
return the EOS to the store, I mean to pass through a regular roll of film so
that I have a quality record of how
the mount adapter works properly.
The Polaroid prints do not have much of resolution to test whether the image is
sharply focused. It is useful for checking exposure (I found out through the
test, my Polaroid prints were underexposed whenever the bigger blue sky was
included in the frame.) and also composition. For these checks, I did not need
a loupe although I took along my 4x loupe.
Tomoko Yamamoto
mailto:tomokoy@xxxxxxxxx
http://www.charm.net/~tomokoy/
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|