Hi,
I managed to find some time and re-adjust my OM-2 s/p. I well understand
my methods are rather crude by results are quite remarkable, if slow and
tedious.
I used actual slide film for a series of photos, taken with a normal
lens at a f8.0 aperture (for uniformity across the frame) and varying
the light source intensity (1000W lamp) - by taking it closer or further
from the lens that had a piece of paper over the front acting as a
diffuser.
Resulting slides (underexposed by 1 f-stop for a better contrast) were
examined by mounting them in a 1:1 bellows attachment. My previous
experience tell me this set-up is adequately precise for even a rather
critical density examination (e.g. exposure precision).
Well, to make this short I managed to get exposures right if one forget
some unevenness at 1/1000 and around.
Nevertheless, a program setting did not work. It is not too serious
because I am not an admirer of so_much_automation. However, if it might
be corrected, why not? When I put the lens to it's minimum f-stop the
viewfinder indications correctly show the program_originated shutter
speed but in reality the camera acts as if it is set to AUTO, e.g.
exposures are mainly much longer than should be.
I opened this camera long ago and remember there are two adjustment
"pots" near the rewind shaft (as you said). One is for setting spot
reading in relation to an average reading (that one I had adjusted then)
and the second one must have something with a program exposure?
I have two problems here. One is whether I have to dismantle the whole
top cover in order to reach this area - I simply cannot remember the
details, it was years ago. Maybe these pots might be reached a la
exposure adjustment ones which are located under a front "leather"
cover?
The second problem evolves the actual adjustment. I must had been tried
both not realizing that I made the program mode inoperative. More -
since my favorite lens is 135 mm and I do not feel myself safe hand
holding it bellow 1/250, is it possible to make a "turning point" at
1/250 instead of a standard 1/60?
Sorry to disturb you so much. To be honest I use this Olympus mainly for
sentimental reasons (my pre-AF Minolta system) and a kind of back up. I
gave up OM when looking for a more dynamic system but now I bought a
couple of lenses and feel a special enjoyment using this lot. Olympus is
also so much smaller to carry around.
Regards,
Emil
John Hermanson wrote:
>
> If your side to side exposure changes, this means the curtains are not
> going across at the same speed. They should both move across in approx
> 10ms. You really absolutely need a calibrated shutter tester to do any
> of this.
> First, at 1/1000 you set curtain speeds to 10.9 . They should be within
> .1ms of each other.
> Then set 1/1000. Best is 1ms but .9 to 1.1 is okay. faster is better as
> you will NEVER see a 2S/4 where 1/1000 gets faster with age.
> I have never had to adjust manual speeds below 1/60, there may not be
> apot for it.
> Then adjust meter position. asa 100, BV12 is starting point. On auto
> at BV12, lcd should line up with 125. There is only ONE adjustment for
> LCD accuracy on auto.
> Pot near the front, next to rewind shaft is for manual (spot) meter
> position. Blinking lcd segment is considered ON.
> Then adjust automatic. BV12, f5.6 asa 100 adjust as close to zero as
> possible.
> There is NO adjustment for program exposure.
> You must have a shutter tester that is equipped with an otf exposure
> probe to do the above.
>
> John
>
> Emil Pozar wrote:
> >
> > John Hermanson wrote:
> > >
> > > Looking at the front of the camera, the right hand pot is for lcd meter
> > > position, middle pot is for auto exposure, left hand pot is for 1/1000
> > > adjustment (which alters all speeds from 1/125 through 1/1000.
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Thanks a lot! However, I am still having problems.. if you had done it
> > before, what is a simplest sequence of adjustments: auto exposure - high
> > speeds - low speeds or..?
> >
> > As is now there is a GREAT jump from 1/30 to 1/15 (both in A and M
> > mode): 1/15 is much underexposing. More down speeds go better (less
> > underexposure) but still not enough to match 1/60 or 1/30 that form my
> > starting point.
> >
> > Upper speeds are somewhat longer and I doubt they might be improved.
> > 1/1000 and even 1/500 are also non-linear (slides darker towards the
> > left).
> >
> > --
--
Regards,
Emil Pozar
epozar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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