>>> What lens would you recommend for skeet ?
>
>A 50/1.8 would fit nicely in the trap and make for a challenging
>shot! That said, the 200 and 300 lenses are closer in size to normal
>game birds, and would make more realistic targets. It would take a
>strong gas fired trap to throw the 300/4.5.
BBB, you're being silly. He wants to know what caliber lens would be best
for shooting skeet, not which lens to throw! That being cleared up, I'd
recommend a choke tube on the 300mm, such as a 72->49mm stepdown ring.
Might narrow the light path and make for a longer. more accurate shot,
despite the vignetting. From personal experience, I would NOT recommend
the 100mm f/2.8 for shooting skeet; the pattern opens up too quickly.
IMHO, the 100 f/2.8 is best used for home defense...that is, until Willie
Clinton and Babs Boxer decide that the second amendment doesn't apply to
telephotos at all.
>>It has long been lore amongst us astrophotographers that the best
>>way to operate a camera's shutter is to time the shutter with a HAT
>>rather than the camera's controls.
>
>How can you tell whether your hat is multicoated? What about third
>party hats? Are the "Made In Japan" hats better than the "Japan"
>hats?
In all seriousness, I had originally purchased an Olympus hat but found
that it was just too small to fit my head, which is a hard-to-fit size of
203 millimeters. Then I purchased a cheap third-party hat, but a gust of
wind blew it off my head, stripping the threads in the process. Without a
hat, I have not been able to operate my Olympus gear at all, but I'm
waiting to get one of those new 2-series hats I've been hearing about
that are only compatible with the OM4. Gary Reese says he might sell me
one.
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