R.E.R. (Red Eye Reduction) solutions for OM include:
- A third party flash bracket, L-shaped, on which a hot shoe adapter with
short pc cord is mounted. Cheap and effective. The best flash brackets have
a hinge so that they can be changed from L-shape to stretched for vertical
shots.
- The Olympus Power Bounce Grip. Not so cheap, and rather heavy, but very
effective, and adds an external power source for more flashes and shorter
recycling time. The item is easy to find. Bounce flash with this unit (and
the flash bracket mentioned above) is only possible in manual mode or OTF
Auto mode (the latter not supported by an OM-1(n)), since the built-in
Normal Auto sensor can't be detached and must always stay aimed at the
subject.
- The Olympus Flash Extender T20. Not very expensive, but not so easy to
find.
- The T32 flash because its head can be tilted allowing bounce flash *if*
you're shooting in a room with a white ceiling.
- A third party bounce flash card that you can stick on the T32, with its
flash head fully tilted upwards, eliminates the need for a bounce-capable
ceiling. It raises the flash output surface and diffuses the light to be
more natural. Effective and cheap.
- The T45. Can be seen as a combination of the Power Bounce Grip and two T32
flashes. Effective, but expensive and heavy.
- A third party hammer flash, like the Metz 45 CT-1. Effective and not very
expensive, but heavy. The additional Mecamat sensor increases its
versatility for fill-in flash.
- If everything else fails you can emulate the dreaded RER pre-flashes from
P&S cameras by pressing the test button of the flash. Not very elegant and
waisting the decisive moment.
- Ask your subject not to look into the camera. Not all subjects are good
listeners, though. Take my cat, for instance. Sometimes she really seems
deaf. Untill I go into the kitchen, you know, that place where all the food
is located.
Hans
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