>Oly Shooters:
>
>Pliobond, with which I've been experimenting this last week, has turned out
>to be great for re-glueing leatherette. While it is necessary to apply the
>glue to both surfaces, it seems to be ready for contact almost immediately.
> I make sure that I have plenty of glue on the edges, but this can cause a
>little bead of glue to squeeze out. It's very obvious with Pliobond, since
>it is a tan color. I've found that a little denatured alcohol on a Q-tip
>(moistened not dripping!) will chase out the bead of glue successfully. I
>particularly like this method because the alcohol is not a solvent for the
>Pliobond, but gets the glue to stop sticking to the metal frame of the
>camera and causes it to pull together into a blob that is easily removed
>with a toothpick. The alcohol also dries quickly and doesn't seem to hurt
>the paint.
>
>Joel
>
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I am not sure if this suggestion was already discussed, but I have good
experiences with adhesive tape (from a roll) which is used to put down
carpet on the floor (in German Teppichdoppelklebeband). You have to use a
tape with strong gluing power. First I removed the "artificial" leather
from the body, then removed the old glue (also from the camera body) and
glued the leather on the one sticky side of the tape. After that, I "recut"
the edges of the piece, removed the paper from the second sticky side and
glued the leather back on the camera body. I would be careful with glue
which cannot be removed because this makes a repair of the camera more
difficult.
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