At 03:52 PM 10/21/1998 -0700, Peter you wrote and I snipped the first part:
>
>Now, the questions:
>
>* Most important: If the repairman will fix the meter switch and self
>timer without charge, should I keep the body, or are the problems
>sufficient evidence that I should stay away from this body?
>
Hi Peter,
That amount of money (USD?) is a lot for a OM-2 body, unless it's
relatively flawless. If the repair guy can fix the problems, maybe it's
worth it. I'd certainly discuss the extent of the problems. IMO you ought
to shoot a roll of slides and test the meters that way before you conclude
that the camera's busted.
>* If I return the body, should I keep the lenses and look for another OM
body?
>
Those are premium prices to pay for what are certainly SC lenses.
>* Are my lenses multi-coated? One article said if you see green
>reflections, they are, another said green or blue. I see some blue and
>violet reflections internally, but no green, and the primary reflection off
>the front element is yellow. Maybe someone can tell from the lens
>inscription, serial number and reflection descriptions above.
>
No way are they MC. Sorry.
>* If the lenses are not multicoated, how much difference will it really
>make in practical terms? I don't usually shoot straight into the sun or
>into bare light bulbs, and I always use a lens hood.
>
That's the $60K question. If we didn't have MC vs. SC discuss, we wouldn't
have any fun at all on this list ;-) I don't think I'd worry too much
about it. They're gonna flare more, that's the bottom line. I think you're
paying more like MC prices for them though.
>* Looking over the lens tests on the Web, the 50mm f/1.4 has tested out so
>many different ways that it can be anything from a dog to a diamond :-)
>Some of the Modern Photography numbers are really off the wall, and I don't
>know how to compare 1970s and 1984+ figures. I do some indoor work without
>flash, and it's very cloudy in Seattle 9 months of the year. Is the f/1.4
>OK for general photography, or would I be better off trying to get a f/1.8
>instead (the dealer has several, I haven't seen them yet).
>
You've got to have BOTH. It's a rule!
>* Up until now, I've been using an old Leica screw-mount IIIf with 35mm
>f/3.5 Summaron, 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor, and 90mm f/4 Elmar. (No, they are NOT
>for sale). There are many inconveniences to this old system, and it's just
>not worth adjusting the shutter every year any more. How will my Zuikos
>compare, optically, to my c. 1950 Leitz and Nikkor rangefinder lenses?
>
Someone else can have fun with this one.
>* How cold can it get before the silver oxide batteries' voltage drops
>enough to make the shutter unreliable?
>
It doesn't get that cold in Seattle.
>* What speed does the shutter or right section of the body
>faceplate. What does this mean? Did the camera originally have a motor
>drive?
>
Means it can take a winder or motor. It's a carryover from the days when
there were OM-1's that could and couldn't.
Was there ever an OM-2 that couldn't take a winder?
Have fun,
Joel
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