HI George:
> Then I'll remove the
> camera from the tripod, put it back in the bag while forgetting to put the
self
> timer lever back, thus assuring a blown picture on my next hand-held shot!
LOL! That regularily happens to me. I'm forcing myself you use an OM-1n more
now. The mirror lockup is unbeatable. The self-timer solution is pretty
unworkable for breaky conditions in which one waits quite sometime for a lull
in the breeze, only to have to wait for the self-timer to run its course.
I just retired my OM-2S due to unreliable metering (1/1000th spikes) and
picked up a OM-2n with a multicoated 50 mm f/1.8 AND a T-32 flash for $200.
Alas, the frame counter isn't advancing, otherwise Exc+. Considering it is
the only OM-2 or better OLY I've seen locally at a fair price, I'll live with
it till an overhaul. Plus a friend immediately bought the T-32. (Anyone with
the expertise to do just the regearing to get the OM-2n to spin? The camera
seems to expose and meter quite accurately, so a CLA at present is an
overkill, esp. with a fugus removal of my 50 mm f/2.0 Macro the top repair
priority).
I used to have a OM-2 and a OM-2n. I'm already loving this "new" one to
pieces, esp, after resoldering my $5 TTL Auto Connector Type 4 and decking the
OM-2n out with it and a Bounce Grip 2.
I've shot in Auto more than I want to admit. It is too tempting to do a
bracket relying on Auto expose as the base exposure. I haven't found the
OM-2S spot angle to be narrow enough for the technique I used with my Sekonic
1 degree spot meter (averaging a detailed shadow and a detailed highlight
reading). I guess that says I wouldn't do it with an OM-3 or OM-4, either!
Unless I put a 200 mm f/5.0 Zuiko on it. The OM spot meter is better applied
(IMHO) as a narrow angle averaging meter. I look for an area with a mix of
shadows and highlights, center the meter so neither predominates and set that
as the exposure.
Gary Reese
Las Vegas, NV
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