Hi John:
> What do expiration dates on film really mean (both pro and non-pro film)?
> What happens after the date?
They aren't a magical date. Film progressively looses speed and color shifts
with age. That rate of change is slowed with refrigeration and essentially
arrested with freezing.
> What's the difference between UV and Haze and Skylight filters (Color and
> B&W)?
Haze filter have a noticable warming effect, Skylight a slight warming effect,
and UV no warming effect. All block UV radiation, but then so does one of the
layers in the film emulsion, so I don't see the need to sell UV filters at
all! (Other than more profit to the dealer).
> How can one employ fill-in flash with either the T-32 or F280 flash?
Determine it manually based on the ambient light, the T-32 power setting and
filter one might use, the neutral density filter on the lens one might use,
the film speed and the shutter speed (1/60th or less).
> I read about a solution for the OM-1 battery problem; what is the fix?
> Wein batteries or is there a suitable part?
I use the MR-9 battery adapter from C.R.I.S. at:
http://www.criscam.com/
Their shipping charge is outrageous, though! Once that adapter is in, you can
buy batteries from most any retailer stocking camera batteries.
> I have extension tubes that will allow my 50mm f1.8 to go to 1:1. How
> sharp can I expect this set-up to be in the 1:2 to 1:1 range?
Probably horrid, although I have to admit I haven't tried it. It is one of
the least favorable options listed the "The Olympus Way." Only by using the
f/1.4 or f/1.2 lenses would you get worse.
> I was considering the 90mm f2 macro for close-ups (mostly flowers). Is
> this suitable for making copy slides? How about on a copy stand? Or
> should I use the 50mm f1.8 with tubes?
I'll say it's too long for a copy stand. I've sometimes been hard pressed to
get the subject in with a 50 mm macro using a copy stand. I go with a 50 mm
f/3.5 or f/2.0 for botanical photography up to 1:2, and a 80 mm f/4.0 for 1:1
work, both with flower parts and slide duplication. The latter lens is
fantastic for duplicating.
> What is the least expensive, best (sharpest) method for making slide
> copies?
In many cases to send them off to a lab!
Gary Reese
Las Vegas, NV
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